The Grizz is alive...lots of pics...... - Page 16 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-27-2008, 06:36 PM   #151
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I think you should just drop that transmission while the motor is out and get it overhauled at the same time. You know that if anything in there is weak, Victor will find it once he gets the new motor.

Victor could get a second job for a few months to pay for it.
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:02 PM   #152
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It'* out.

And laying on the pallet.

Pics to come.
No easy feat let me tell you. Almost tipped over once.

GTG get me Hep A&B shots.........
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:08 PM   #153
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You're not fooling anyone Paul.

You are enjoying every little bit of this.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:10 AM   #154
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Bill, your remark was unacceptable for one who changes his Trani fluid as many times as you have you should know it off the top of your head.
I know mine. 7 liters.

Thanks John. You gave me the confidence to dump the engine stand idea. That works better when I do an engine in the garage on a level concrete floor but....well this is the Grizz way to do it.


Here are all the pieces I retrieved from the trani pan.
I'm sure it'* not a seal. It'* hard plastic. A circular donut shape about 3/32" thick.


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The initial set up with the engine stand idea.


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Ditched the factory lifting lugs for a little over kill but much better controllability.


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Buckwheat waiting for something to happen. In due time my young Padwan.



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Now this is how you pull out a Bonne Engine.



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Laid to rest so I can strip it bare.


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Got just about everything off it but how do you take off the Harmonic Balancer.
We undid the bolt but there are no screw holes in the balancer for a puller.

Please send me a liink and tell me if I need to purchase a new tool.

Won't be doing anything on it for the next two days. Off to the Vancouver Auto Show.
Maybe I'll order me a new G8 GXP.....I wish.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:14 AM   #155
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You need a HB puller and some M6 screws. Length is posted around here somewhere.

The SLOTS in the face have threaded holes behind them on the inner ring.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:34 AM   #156
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OK, Yes I see in another post the 6mm x 70 or 80 or 90 depending on what kind of puller you have.

Can anyone be a little more definitive. ie. length based on thickness of puller


Hey, why are there two temperature sensors in the S1 LIM.
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Old 03-28-2008, 01:36 AM   #157
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Time to throw a Series 2 in there now
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:53 AM   #158
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the sensor under the tb goes the pcm. the one towards the back is for the gauge.

and i like your leveler attempt much better than the factory setup. you just end up hitting the valve covers that way. but that has got to be a pain to roll if you hadn't had the plywood
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:39 PM   #159
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Don't forget to take a picture of someone in the engine bay
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:18 AM   #160
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Quote:
the sensor under the tb goes the pcm. the one towards the back is for the gauge.

and i like your leveler attempt much better than the factory setup. you just end up hitting the valve covers that way. but that has got to be a pain to roll if you hadn't had the plywood
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Funny why they couldn't accomplish two outputs with a single sensor.

Yes the leveler is a great device. Never touched a valve cover. Came out so smoothly it never even came close to anything. I did the whole lift myself with victor providing the support for the hoist not falling over due to the driveway slope. Couldn't have done it without him.

One time it slid off the plywood and as I held the engine from falling over on the hoist, Victor lifted the leg back onto the plywood.
If I ever do this again, it will be on level concrete.

The long block is amazingly easy to move around by hand myself on the pallet. Don't want to throw my back out though so as soon as I get the balancer and front cover off, I will set it on its end with the crank pointed up, then strap it down and ship it off.

Sure wish Maymybonneyliveforever would send us his engine & trani. That would be so sweet. I would go for it if the total with shipping was not more than $1.500.

As it is planned, this rebuilt engine will cost us $2,575. + 12% tax
I know we will have to drop another grand into misc parts but doing the work ourselves will save us at least $1,500.

It will be fresh and tight and ready for at least another 60,000 miles (100,000 kms).

In the end Victor will have a $6,000. vehicle. Of course he could never sell it for that much but that is not the intent. He plans to keep and do a good job maintaining this vehicle for at least 4 years.

The key to getting your money out of a vehicle is the length of time you own it.

It costs on average about $3,500. per year to own a vehicle based on maintenance and depreciation not including insurance and fuel. Grand total is on average $6,500. a year per vehicle. That'* not chump change
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