The Grizz is alive...lots of pics...... - Page 19 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-19-2008, 12:53 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Anything else we should be doing now?
If the transmission is out as well... Like I said earlier take a picture with someone in the engine bay.

Or alot of cleaning while the engines away....

Just trying to help.... (in an uplifting way )
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:32 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Disassembled the exhaust manifolds to inspect for cracks. Only found one big one in the front manifold. I used the fill it with water trick. The rear manifold looks clean with no cracks.
Check that crossover very carefully. Remove the heatshield if you need to, have it welded back on when the front manifold is repaired.

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We got some TR6 plugs and intend to gap them from .035 to .045. Is that right Bill
180 drilled stat.
Oil pressure volume kit.
Should I be disassembling the oil pump on the front cover or leave it alone?
What about the seal? It wasn't leaking.....
Not TR6. TR55 gapped at .060". I run TR6 on the Zilla and I'm far beyond the Grizz.
180 with a TINY hole. You get colder than I do up there.
Oil pressure kit? Good.
Leave the oil pump alone.
Replace the front seal.

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Damn magnetic drain plug doesn't fit.........it'* got the wrong thread pitch.....must be for a Series 2 engine.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=botched+order

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I intend to also replace the water pump while it'* easy to do. Should we replace the cam sensor and crank sensor

Anything else we should be doing now?
Water pump? You bet. Sensors? Easy to change later if you have the right tools. Save the money.
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Old 04-19-2008, 03:44 PM   #183
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Ya, I'll only replace the sensors that I know are bad.

I also have a new fuel filter. Thanks for reminding me about the injector O-rings.

Water pump new is $69. from Napa. It'* got a stamped impeller. The stock one has a stamped impeller.
I phoned another parts store here and they quoted $85 for a new Fenco.

Did you have cracks in the front manifold crossover. Never would have thought because it'* straight and shouldn't have any welding stresses. The one crack I can see it very big and starts from the weld.

The old plugs had .080" gap
I'm gonna try the TR6, now that I bought them. ZZP says they are the right application.
Ya, this was a ZZP order.
The stat will be fine...for this summer. I'll put an undrilled 180 in for winter.

Leave the oil pump alone. Why Shouldn't it be inspected and cleaned to make sure no sparkles inside? From what I can see, it looks clean and the oil that leaked out does not have any sparkles in it, but......
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Old 04-19-2008, 03:55 PM   #184
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Paul, TR6 plugs are NOT right for your application. They are far too cold. Even the TR55'* are bordering on too cold, and you're going COLDER? Not on a stock pulley. Those plugs won't last. Get some cheap local copper plugs in the proper heatrange first. Putting TR6'* on that car WAY out of the realm of proper part selection.

ZZP doesn't say at all that they are the right plugs. You don't have a GTP running a smaller pulley. You have a Series 1 Bonneville running a stock pulley.

TR55 are one heatrange colder than stock, and that is as far as you should go. TR6 is TWO heatranges colder, which you'll be running after probably his second pulley drop and ALOT of other work.

I assume you already inspected the oil pan for sparkles. I've never seen any in an oil pump before. They tend to stay in the pan or would have drained back down by now.

If you do decide to go in and clean it out, make sure you pack it with vaseline first.
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Old 04-19-2008, 06:35 PM   #185
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OK, I'll keep the TR6'* for me and buy some 55'*.

.....and I'll leave the oil pump alone.
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:33 PM   #186
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Napa does not have the injector O-rings. I'll have to get them from the dealer.

Got the water pump, Belden wires, upper and lower rad hoses, and TR55 plugs......$240.

Victor owes me big time.

I'm keeping track of the costs.

He knows that he won't be driving it until it'* paid off. :P I can't.....he can't... afford to lose a trani before paying off the cost of the engine rebuild.

Can the three bolts that connect the flex plate to the torque converter be reused?
I got new bolts for the flex plate to crank.

The engine long block rebuild will cost close to $3 K plus all the other misc costs will amount to about $4 K.
So as I have said before, he will have a $6 K car that is only really worth half that. He will HAVE to keep it a few years.....and take good care of it... to get a return on this investment.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:26 PM   #187
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TC bolts are re-usable. Use loctite and torque to 46 ft/lbs in two stages.
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:54 PM   #188
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It'* pretty tight under there. Is it possible to use a torque wrench on those bolts.
We had to use a box wrench to take them off.

All the gaskets and seals are coming with the long block. The guy said we get the entire engine seal / gasket kit.

I can install the water pump now. It came with its own gasket. I will use my red permatex on both sides of the gasket for a long lasting seal.

Unfortuneately ......or maybe fortuneately, Victor has been working at the Grocery store to pay this all off when he isn't in school ............so you know who is skinning his knuckles.

and it needs a new supercharger belt too.......

So much for rebuilding my Firebird engine this year. :(
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Old 04-19-2008, 11:05 PM   #189
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Don't install the water pump until you have the block. Some of the bolts that hold the water pump to the timing chain cover go all the way into the block. You MAY have leaks if you install only the bolts you can now, and more later.
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Old 04-20-2008, 01:17 PM   #190
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Ya, I figured that out after I posted.

So more clean up and waiting. No matter, it'* gonna take a while for Vic to save up enough to begin driving it anyways.

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