Paul, if you have a heavy garden wagon or something like a good heavy wagon, use that to move the motor. Use the cherry picker to lift the motor out, then pull the car out from underneath it with the other car. Run the wagon under and lower it in. Trust me, there'* no way in hell you're gonna make it to the house with a loaded cherry picker on gravel, without a few extra guys to help...

Great idea Brian. Do you think a wheelbarrow would work :?:

Too bad my driveway wasn't flat.

I was going to use sheets of plywood laid down under the engine hoist wheels.



Oh, I almost forgot.....the starter! Haven't got that out yet either.

Wheelbarrow might be scary. A lot of weight to balance on one wheel (unless you have one of those nice two-wheeled ones). I know I don't have the body for that kind of work, anyway...

yeah, unless you have a two wheeler dont even try it, carrying a barrow loaded with just rocks is scary, let alone a motor.

Well, it was a good idea, but we don't think we could tow it backwards without damaging the rear bumper, so we're gonna stick to the original plan of wheeling the hoist backwards downwards slope on plywood......getting it back in will prove more physically challenging.

I'm pretty sure that the shipping transport company here in town have a cherry picker flat deck they can ship the engine without us moving it more than 4 feet.

What happens if I break the rear knock sensor plug off. :?:

I hope that little 1 square inch piece that broke off the ring gear plastic shield won't matter.
....and I broke the handle off the oil dipstick. It'* garbage now.
Just about time for a junk yard scavenger hunt.

Paul, if you need an extra hand in the next few days, let me know. Even if I drive over, it'* not that far. I'm busy today, but I don't go back to work until Wednesday.

Paul, double check the source of the knock sensor and PS (T2V) plug. If they're on the engine harness downstream of the connector behind the alternator, leave it connected for now. I don't recall which harness it comes from.

Just squeeze the flats and pull it off otherwise.

That'* mighty nice of you to offer John.

When this engine will be ready to come out. A lot depends on my son and his Safeway work schedule.....he works every day from now till Thursday....needs to pay for this rebuild.

With Easter and all we can only pick away at it this weekend.

The PS pump, AC compressor and starter are next to come off and never having done it before it will take some tinkering......don't even know where the bolts are.......and that bastard knock sensor clip.
I have to bottle 60 liters of wine today and Victor just went to work, so the real work won't begin until he gets home @ 4:30.

Then the tricky rear support and hidden trani bolts should prove to be a challenge.

So I don't think we will be ready until at least Tuesday to pull it out........if not then, then the following week is the last week before I am gone for 2 months.

I am going to Vancouver next Friday (work related) and Saturday (Auto Show) and then home on Sunday till I leave the following Saturday.

Let'* monitor the progress this weekend and I'll let you know on Monday if Tuesday is good. It sure would help to have another pair of strong hands around when we extract this Grizzly'* eye tooth.

Paul, for the backwards bolt, just remove the rear exhaust mani. It'll come out if you push the trans dipstick out of the way (with the exhaust studs removed, which you'd have to do to pull the motor anyway). 15 minutes more work, and then you'll SEE the backwards bolt in the 'armpit' under the mani, where the trans wraps around the block.

I can shoot a pic on the engine stand here showing you which one it is (it can't be seen from the passenger side, I found it by 'feel' with a long stack of extensions). When I put it back, the rear manifold wasn't on, and I tightened it from above in this manner, but I had pre-glued it in place with RTV to be able to get to it from the passenger side if necessary.

I can show the tailshaft bracket as well if you like. My motor is still on the stand.

You must have a better squeezer than me cause it'* hard when you have to reach up blind thru narrow opening and have your hand bent at a strange angle and then try to squeeze inside a recess with only the tips ot two fingers.

They come off the harness after the connector. So this connector you speak about. Is that the one with two screws that bolts onto the firewall? .....because there is no quick connect except the one for the crank and cam sensors harness. :?


Edit - Thanks Bill, wait till I get that far and pics would be great. Nice tip on the backwarks bolt. I remember see that one when I did my headers. It'* the same on the Series 2 engine.

So I suppose a Series 2 is out of the question...Nes pas?

Oh, and does the front and crossover pipe have to come off to get the rear off :?:
Then I suppose you have to reinstall the rear lifting bracket? Did you use spacer washers to make up for the loss of the manifold flange?

Do the bracket come off completely or just the bracket to frame bolts......or just the bracket to engine bolts??
On a normal V8 which is all I have experience on, you can undo the motor mounts before supporting the engine on the hoist. Is that possible on this sideways engine?