The Grizz is alive...lots of pics...... - Page 7 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-20-2008, 12:28 AM   #61
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And on top of all this, the Anti loc system Service light is on and the traction control has failed off.

Do you think that subconsciencely I wanted this all to happen in order to keep my gearheading passion alive.

NOT
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:30 AM   #62
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Paul, read my reply at the bottom of the previous page.
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:31 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Why twice
How did you rebuild it ......or did you swap in donors and take a chance
First motor dropped oil pressure, spun. Second motor seized suddenly while briefly at WOT to pass an idiot turning left from the right lane.
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:41 AM   #64
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Quote:
Paul, that'* no lemon. How far did it drive fine on the way home?

How quickly did he burn through a tank of gas?

I know exactly what happened to that motor, and you're about to pay for it.

You'll need to remove the crank as well, Paul. Not just the rod caps and bearings. The crank will need to be either replaced or turned (if it'* even possible due to the damage, assuming that'* an issue).
Yes it ran quite well on the way home. I was challenged many times to try and keep ahead of Victor in my Jeep.

My theory is that the oil pressure was low cause it was old and cold.

If that'* the case, then the engine will have to come out.
Oh this is going to cost Victor big time. A crank alone can cost $800. then add in the $1,500. for a rebuild kit .....not to mention the time....and we might as well just cut our losses right now.
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:50 AM   #65
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car-part.com
L67 compleat.
They arent bad to change at all, I helped with one once on a Green Supercharged car, seems easier on the green ones.
The oil pan is an easy removal on that car, might be worth a quick inspection, but I will bet money its a rod bearing. I blew the engine in a 95 SSEi (green) this winter on a test drive, and it only had 155,000 kms on it...same thing, sounded AWFUL, sometimes..**** just happens.

Tell Victor to keep his eyes open...
I purchased a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme once, after my first SSEi, I paid 4000 for it, low kms. I drove it for 3 hours and the engine went. Sat in my yard for a year, then I sold it for 800 dollars. That SUCKED. I know how he feels.
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:07 AM   #66
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So tell me Matt. Just what do you have to do to an engine to blow it since in all my 38 years of driving vehicles, and I drive them hard, I have never blown an engine. ...........apparantly not hard enough or is there something I'm missing
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:10 AM   #67
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I was WOT, but Im not sure when it happend I had it warmed up, did a few WOT runs, really testing the car, I got out on the highway, crusied at 75mph all the way back, came to a red light, noticed the oil PSI gauge was reading 5psi..
HOWEVER, not in all cases will the oil psi drop.
A spun bearing can sometimes cause a venturi effect, increasing oil pressure as excess metal is blocking the oil passage..this happens about half the time.
There was metal in the oil afterward too.
Antifreeze could of come in contact with the rod bearings, just because the previous owner said no to that, dont rule it out.
A poorly maintaned engine will do this...if not now..a few months from now when he has a few more bucks into it..
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:17 AM   #68
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Car parts had a few used engines ranging from a $1,400 unit with 80 K miles to a $900 engine with 300 K miles and about 300 miles from here.
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:22 AM   #69
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Damn.
Well, I guess he has something to work for now.
You could pull it and teach him how to do a basic rebuild...crank kit..I think napa sells them even, along with pistons ofcourse.
But who knows? You might need a ridge reamer and a cylinder hone to really clean things up in there...its a mix bag, as im sure you know.
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:14 AM   #70
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Cold start on the oil, immediate wot, high rpm'* and revving. He burned through his tank of gas how quick?

A swap is your least expensive option, but you'll have to be patient to find a good one. It took me 3 months to find the motor I got.
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