The Grizz is alive...lots of pics...... - Page 11 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-22-2008, 01:37 PM   #101
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I don't remember who disconnected my knock sensor, but it wasn't easy. I think it was Mattski, and we didn't figure it out until we saw the connector on my spare harness.

The front/crossover can stay on the car when you remove the rear, so you don't have to mess with that hoist bracket. Yes, I used a couple washers to make up for the lack of the rear EM flange when I reinstalled the rear hoist bracket for dropping the new motor in. Worked great (thick hardened washers under the bracket).

You might even be able to see some of that in my pics of the meet.

The bolts need to be removed that hold the bracket on the back of the block to the tailshaft bracket. I found it a little easier to remove the tailshaft bracket entirely, though. Pdad put that back, and may have better advice (remember we had to replace that axle as well).

Support the motor with slight tension on the hoist while you remove the two mounts and the bellhousing bolts. No jack is necessary, although you may need to finagle the motor with a jack a little for the Torque-axis mount (the one by the water pump). Don't jack too high or the axle will seperate. It may be best to simply remove the four bolts on the 'knuckle' of that mount and let the whole mount come out with the engine. The side bolts are a little harder to get to, but it can be done.
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Old 03-22-2008, 01:40 PM   #102
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The front/crossover doesn't need to come off to get the rear mani off.

I didn't use any spacers for the rear lifting bracket.

Remove the bolts from the torque axis mount (just the one in the middle will do, but it may help to loosen up the bolts on the frame side of the mount) and the bracket hiding near the rear knock sensor, support the engine and remove the block-tranny bolts.
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:55 PM   #103
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Sorry, squeeze on the LONG axis of the connector for the knock sensor:
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Backwards bolt on the far right (nearest the shelf unit):
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Tailshaft bracket, also showing the backwards bolt in the background:
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:00 PM   #104
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A year ago my mom'* 93 SSEi sounded like that. The supercharger was toast. When I took the */C belt off, the noise disappeared. She was disgusted and sold the car to me.

Changed the supercharger. ($400) No problems - love the car!.
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:05 PM   #105
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He'* already removed the belt and the noise is still there.

And $400 for a supercharger is pretty steep. By more than double even after rebuilding.
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:15 PM   #106
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OK thanks Bill and John. Pics are worth a thousand words.
Victor is working till 7 tonight.....really trying to rake in the engine money.

I spotted the backwards bolt and I think I know where the starter 2 bolts are. So it'* easier to hang the starter without disconnecting the wiring

I loosened the two PS bolts that poke thru the pulley and will leave the final extraction for Victor. The other bolt is where? in the back at right angle to those two? ...and you have to reach in thru the passenger wheelwell? I tried taking off the rubber sheild but it'* flexible enough so should be able to reach in without removing it.

I see the pic of my Series II engine to AC compressor mounting. It looks a little different. What are there, 3 bolts on the front and one in the back?

I think it will be better to lower the car off the jackstands so the hoist doesn't have to lift as high but if I have to support first and still have to be able to climb under to remove the support, how do you suggest we proceed.
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:23 PM   #107
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Paul, only two PS pump bolts on a horizontal line.

AC compressor is two front, one smaller rear bolt.
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:47 PM   #108
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$400 is steep? I searched around at the time and $400 was not bad for a rebuilt unit with a lifetime warranty. Perhaps I should have searched a little more... Oh well, the car runs great - I am happy... (Oops - I don't want to hijack the thread)
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Old 03-22-2008, 09:16 PM   #109
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Paul is no stranger to Eaton'*. He'll rebuild that one himself for under 100, or I will for him the next time the car makes a meet down here (if that one ever does). It would be fitting. The supercharger on Paul'* other SSEi came through my shop, but the motor is the far bigger problem right now.

(not to mention he'* torn down a couple for me during a visit when I had to work)
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:51 AM   #110
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The PS pump is off and tied out of the way.

The starter wiring is disconnected.

The wiring harness is out.

The exhaust pipe disconnected and studs are removed.

The drivers side bolt is out of the AC compressor but the front two are sandwiched with another bracket...does that come off also

Victor works again tomorrow and it is Easter Sunday so no work tomorrow for me........well maybe just a little.

So with the rear exhaust manifold off, I should be able to get at the backwards trani bolt from the top drivers side

Why is it necessary to remove the passenger wheel and little liner piece (which by the way has bolts that are too big for 8mm and too small for 9 mm I don't see the point yet to removing it

I haven't removed the alternator bracket. Is there a need Everything looks clear.
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