1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

The Grizz is alive...lots of pics......

Old 04-01-2008, 10:01 PM
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We are forgetting about the trani for now.

The engine has been shipped to the rebuilder and I expect it back early June.
They are delaying the rebuild until I return from South America.

The long block weighed 320 lbs and cost me $87. to ship one way 80 miles to Vancouver........crooks!

Made a bonus score at the auto wreckers today picking up a few misc parts.
Found a Bonne cab with the FE2 suspension and snapped up the front sway bar. It'* the big solid one.

Got to go back tomorrow and try to wrench off the oil pan level sensor......someone broke the connector off.

Couldn't find those hood strut clips though..... :(
Old 04-02-2008, 09:44 AM
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Made a bonus score at the auto wreckers today picking up a few misc parts.
Found a Bonne cab with the FE2 suspension and snapped up the front sway bar. It'* the big solid one

Can you get me a price on the rear sway bar and rear springs?
Old 04-02-2008, 10:21 AM
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Paul, your 94 already HAS the big fat FE2 swaybar. Sell it to John.
Old 04-02-2008, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Paul, your 94 already HAS the big fat FE2 swaybar. Sell it to John.
I was going to mention that, but figured he'd find out quick enough.
Old 04-02-2008, 12:09 PM
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Bill, I know this is the Grizz thread but I have an 00 Bonne and that'* what the bar would be for.
I am not modifying the Grizz at all from stock.

I think the FE2 bar will fit. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The rear bar and springs are still on the car and very difficult to get at.

Front bar only cost me $20. complete with brackets and bushings.
Old 04-02-2008, 12:21 PM
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Paul, all SSEi'* by default got the FE2 larger bars. Both of your cars already have them.
Old 04-02-2008, 12:29 PM
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No Bill, mine is 1/16" smaller in diameter and is hollow as opposed to this larger solid one.
Old 04-02-2008, 12:37 PM
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For your 2k? We need to keep this on topic.
Old 04-19-2008, 11:37 AM
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The Grizz is still down but the Engine Rebuilders have begun the rebuilding process.

We expect to get it back next week.

I won't possibly be able to get it all back together and in the car before I leave the country again but I do intend to pick away at it.

Yesterday I cleaned up the intake manifold.........no, not in the dishwasher this time .

Disassembled the exhaust manifolds to inspect for cracks. Only found one big one in the front manifold. I used the fill it with water trick. The rear manifold looks clean with no cracks.

We got some TR6 plugs and intend to gap them from .035 to .045. Is that right Bill :?:
180 drilled stat.
Oil pressure volume kit.
Should I be disassembling the oil pump on the front cover or leave it alone?
What about the seal? It wasn't leaking..... :?

Damn magnetic drain plug doesn't fit.........it'* got the wrong thread pitch.....must be for a Series 2 engine.

I intend to also replace the water pump while it'* easy to do. Should we replace the cam sensor and crank sensor :?:

Anything else we should be doing now?
Old 04-19-2008, 11:43 AM
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If you buy a Timing cover gasket kit, the new front seal will be included. Simply pry out the old one, and carefully tap (or press if you prefer) the new one in.

If you decide to take the oil pump apart, make absolute sure you have the right torx bit to take the cover bolts off. I strongly recommend you pull it apart, check for excessive scoring, chips on the gears, and reassemble with vaseline packed in it. I would use blue threadlocker on the bolts, I know I am.

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