The Grizz is alive...lots of pics...... - Page 9 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-21-2008, 06:14 PM   #81
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I suppose 94 was the first year for the dam.

The pan is off.



At first appearance it looks clean.



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But when you look real close........well, what do you guys think, normal after 170 K miles or rod bearings.





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Old 03-21-2008, 06:19 PM   #82
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That is a bad sign.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:23 PM   #83
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No chunks or big particles.

Just looks like metal flake glitter used in paint. It'* really only noticeable in a certain light.

Well, you think we should continue with the extraction

I'll wait a few hours before preceding. Might as well put the pan back on......
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:29 PM   #84
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The flakes look bigger than mine did. I was grinding a lifter roller, and I've found strands of copper bearing material stuck in them. Food for thought.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:33 PM   #85
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I'm all for optimism where it'* applicable, but... this one'* toast. Way too sparkly to be a healthy engine.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:34 PM   #86
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That Paul is from the bad rod... When you guys get the motor out you'll see how much has been chewed off the crank and rod along with the bearing..

Even for 170k that wouldn't be normal..

And I can go with 94 being the first year.. My 95 also has that air dam

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Old 03-21-2008, 09:07 PM   #87
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Just got back from a 2 hr Good Friday Service. Said my prayers and now it'* time to get down to business.

Well I'm sort of glad we have concensus.
Now we'll fell better going the rest of the way knowing it was for the better.

Time to put the pan back on, drain the coolant, and try and get that last connector off the rear knock sensor. I have small hands, so I don't know how some of you bigger guys can do it.......practice.?

Guess I should leave the oil cooler lines off.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:04 PM   #88
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Paul, round connector, squeeze it oval, and it'll come off.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:38 PM   #89
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for the oil cooler lines one is easier than the other remember what order you disconnect them and reconnect them in the oppisite order after the motor swap. p.*. this really is katie and ill prove it "shiny thing!"
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Old 03-22-2008, 12:19 AM   #90
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Thanks Katie, you know more than your Dad.

Got them both off, pan is back on, wiring is all off.....except that dam rear knock sensor....it already feels oval ......I'm gonna have to work out my finger muscles tonight to gain some strength for another go tomorrow.

Coolant is drained......how do I drain the block I remember the pic of Bill with coolant Green hair during his engine removal.

Alternator is off. Ignition colls are off, ....dam....broke the two ground eyelets clean off.

Fans are out.

PS pump and A/C compressor tomorrow.

Do I need to take off anything else

How much movement is required using the engine hoist? How much of a smooth pathway will I need?.......it'* only a slight grade down away from the car but 3/4" limerock gravel and steel wheels don't roll well.
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