There are more cracks. Remove all 3 heatshields. Microcracks are very hard to spot. Tape off one end (or the flange) and carefully fill each one with water. Watch for the wet spots.

The rear support is below the oil pressure sender. This is why I suggested (actually it'* the ONLY way) to remove the RF wheel and inner fender liner. It'* a 'friendly gravity' situation. The bracket on the motor sits on TOP of the tailshaft bracket. You'll see when you get in there, Paul. Just get to it and you'll know what to do.

The last bolt is by the pressure lines on the rear of the AC Compressor. Get under there and you'll find it. This is why I suggested removal from beneath. You'd be there anyway to disconnect the starter.

Got the Compressor out of the way.

Got the backwards trani bolt. It was easy from the top drivers side.
Are there only 5 trani bolts, including the backwards one?

Now to try and find the rear support. :P

If you got the backwards one, you can see all the rest (even with the crossover installed). You can't miss one.

I can see four in this pic.....one is attaching that crazy trani mount.



Hey, don't I have to undo the torque converter bolts :?:



....and I almost missed the block heater that'* plugged into the rear frost plug beside that blasted knock sensor that be darned if I can squeeze hard enough, cause it'* so hard.....so hard



Is this the access you spoke of to be able to get at the motor mount :?:
Does it have one bolt on the top and one going straight in thru this opening or are they both on top :?:

It'* so darned greasy back there, I can't believe it
Man this engine is DIRTY

My hands look pretty bad right now. Mini cuts everywhere........I'm such a hacker
There is blood on the Grizz ..........and it should be Victor'*.

Yup thats the access to the motor mount and there are 2 bolts. You need a gear wrench in there, socket wouldn't fit. You might want to send Victor in there for these two

O'Neil, Is there a small bolt that comes off that mount to connect the aluminum accessory bracket?

Can the bracket come out with the engine :?:

Took off the SC and ya the coupler holes are very oblong.

Looks like at least 4 oz of fluid drained out. I think there should have been 8 oz.

That stud that has to be double nutted fooled me at first.

4 oz is normal is a ser 1

Answered my own question. Yes there is a hidden bolt 13 mm wrench that comes off the mount that threads into the aluminum accessory bracket.
It'* off now.

Victor finally came out and he wrenched off the first torque convertor to flex plate bolt as I held the balancer bolt but just as we got the first one.......and he was amazed at how hard he had to wrench on it :P .......his friends show up in a car and he'* gone :(

Cleaned up the tools and my bloodied hands for the day and settling in to watch a DVD.

Paul, leave the accessory bracket on the engine until after you pull it. Don't even bother with it.

Ooops, too late, it'* off.

We just finished watching a boring movie. Don't rent 'Awake'. It'* a yawner.

Tomorrow I'll concentrate on getting the rear support off. shouldn't have to support the engine yet.

Then when ever Victor is ready we can finish taking off the torque converter to flexplate bolts. That is a two man job......for most.

Then I can put the wheel back on, and lower the car down off the jackstands ready to pull the engine.

Oh, we have to pull back the hood and bend it back onto the hood. Hopefully it won' scratch the paint. Duhhhh...... I'm gonna tie it to the roof of the carport.

Do you think it would be better to send the whole thing out for rebuild or maybe just the shortblock and we do the heads.......hmmmmm........and cam.