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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 12-03-2005, 07:19 PM   #11
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Okay, i removed the LIM, took a look at the engine, was quite impressed on how clean it was after 112,400miles, i left the gaskets in place, poured a litre of oil over the balancer shaft and area, clean up any spilled coolant, calling it a day.
Tomorrow, tackling the EM'*..any tips?
Also, for when i take my SC apart to remove and change the coupler, does the rotor plate seperate from the nose drive easily enough..?
I know i have to use RED rtv to reseal the nose drive to the rotorplate then rotorplate to the SC itself, any specific number?
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:32 PM   #12
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SC will fight you coming apart. That'* what the notches are for, to pry it apart if necessary.

Do NOT use RTV. Use the red gasket maker from the dealer. Get the small tube (I have 2 L67'* and spare SC'* for both, so I get the big tube):

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For the EM'*, inspect them CAREFULLY for any cracks. Have all of them welded. Then stitch weld the OUTSIDE of the flanges one weld at a time. By this I mean one stitch on port 1. One stitch on port 2 (other manifold) one stitch on port 5 (furthest from 1), one stitch on 6, furtherst from 2, back and forth. This will keep the manifold flanges from warping while welding. Having them clamped to a flat surface would be ideal. In a perfect world, I would weld studs in the locations to bolt the flanges down on a scrap piece of steel while doing this.

Cracks:
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Repairs:
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Stitch welds:
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Before:
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Before painting, and after all the repairs and outside stitchwelds are done, use a die-grinder to grind out all the OEM welds on the inside of the ports. I gained over 15% cross-sectional area per port.

Finished port:
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:45 PM   #13
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Hmm, try to keep paint out of the O2 bung. It needs to ground through the threads.
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:51 PM   #14
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Good point. I cleaned mine out with a wire brush before assembly.

Also keep in mind that you should reassemble WITH EM gaskets, regardless of the fact that the car came from the factory without them.

In addition, you'll need two donut seals. One for the crossover pipe, and one for the downpipe.
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:51 PM   #15
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Thanks Bill, i knew u had the book of tricks somewere...the welding will be done at an exhaust shop, as i have no access to a welder. I will have to look into getting a die grinder.
And, thanks John for passing that on too, good info on on the 02
can i drink beer and paint my EMs too
LOL
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:03 PM   #16
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You'll need a compressor for the die grinder.

Also keep in mind you NEED a torque wrench with a swivel head in order to properly torque the EM'* back on. This is critical.
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:04 PM   #17
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bill, i have acess to two 20 gallon compressors, one is feet from my car, thats not a problem heheh. A swivel head tourque wrench? Sure, Joel now works for House of Tools, im sure i can get something hehehehe
Also my alternator is quite black, and it squeaks, hehe, hello 140
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:59 PM   #18
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willwren how much of a boost drop did you get from porting the EM, LIM, TB?
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:09 PM   #19
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I doubt any psi drop. Its Flow that makes the difference, you can produce all the PSI you want hehe, but if it has no were to go, its pointless
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:32 PM   #20
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Looking good so far Matt
The engine does look clean for 127k, well done
Edit by matt 112,000miles
hehe
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