Damn.. it really is a hardened insert that broke off in both my "proper" pulley puller jacking bolt and the SC shaft.

Can't drill them to use the extractor........What do I do now

What to do.....well tear into it a bit more.





Here'* the TB adapter bolted on for fit. Its hole matches the Gen III TB hole, so it is slightly smaller than the Gen V opening.

So Bill :?: What would be the point of grinding the opening larger, if the TB and adapter is restricting. :?:



Still have to get that D A M N stud out of the hole. It'* hardened steel and won't drill.

What about weld something onto the end of that stud to grab and twist it out?

Ed

Paul... being that you are sending this charger to Dr. Wren.... send the adapter plate and TB with it. I bet they come back matching or blended better.

On the nosedrive... send that too. He'* got the machine shop at the office and can probably work some magic. Although I have found when that piece stays in the nose, if you hold the shaft with something..that piece usually unscrews easily. Attempting to drill would be turning it clockwise and tightening..maybe..just maybe it'll come out easy if you try turning it counterclockwise?

Welding a rod to it, I don't think will work. I know it was tight in the hole, so it will not turn out easy. The small weld would probably break off :(
I tried using a punch to turn it out but no luck.

Another method could be annealing the broken stud until cherry red and then letting it cool slowly but that would surely cook the Viton seal and possibly damage the bearing.

One method I think I will try it to dremel a hole inside the stud and then use the easy out extractor.

Wish me luck.

If that doesn't work, I will either send it to Bill or order a rebuild unit from INTENSE, that has the end also turned for smaller than 2.8 pull
I know I will not get a full refund for the deposit and will probably cost for someone else to repair.

I want to do this right.

The project I am doing at my job now involves installing a new Papermachine headbox approach pipe that is polished to an electropolished quality. Some of it is what is termed "Cottonball finish", that is polished to a shine so if you wipe a cotton ball across the surface, it will not pick up any fibres.
Try that with your stock cast aluminum manifolds It would rip the head off a cue-tip.

I only have one hour since I've been home from work to go to sleep so I can get up at 4:am for another double shifter, so have to keep my posts short.

Paul...like you said.. keep your shorts on for your posts and stay focused at work and sleep.

This'll work itself out. I'm telling ya.. Wren is da man. He could tell the story of how he got that out at WCBF07 at least 5 times

BTW.. reading my puller instructions last night as I was sending it out. They say that upon reinstallation if that is loose and things turn..it snaps. Your'* snapped during removal right?

Paul, start the hole with a dremel. Then switch to a left-handed drill bit. Use alot of oil. The left-handed drill action and the heat from the drilling may be enough to dislodge it, and put you in better shape for the extractor.

What'* the diameter of the stud? Can you slot it?

That sounds like a good plan.....I've never seen a left handed bit but will inquire at the hardware store.

The other method that was suggested to me was pounding in a washer, then welding the washer to the broken stud, then welding a nut on the washer to turn it out with a wrench.

Which would you try?
If the drilling method, what type of bit? Cobalt? Carbide? Titanium?

The set screw that is broken is 1/4" dia. No.1 extractor specifies a 5/64" drill bit.

Yes I was removing the pulley.....and yes it turned.

get a small flat head screw driveror something small like that and hammer and tap it out in reverse it might take a while
but keep trying

Paul already mentioned that he tryied that to no avail