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Old 12-05-2010, 02:50 AM   #101
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This is extremely tempting compared to making my own box:

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd

This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:53 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by raptor660 View Post
Whats the face for MONTE? lol. lets all get along. We have a common interest and are here for X threw these awesome times.

Lets throw my Fi Q into the mix! Hehehe. And I just put my system back in my trunk and wired the sub to 4 ohms (1100w rms) so my bass is clean, crisp, accurate and not ungodly loud. Sounds great with no dimming or voltage drop. Just dont have that getting punched in the back of the head feel. Sounds like a good trade off to me!
Thumbs up for the Fi Q. I have a 15" Q with the BP power option. It'* in a custom 32 Hz ported box. I crank it pretty hard with a Hifonics Brutus 1600 W rms amp. It gets fairly loud, but stays clean throughout.
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:05 PM   #103
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No. They're installed IB in the door panel. I installed them in the factory hole from the front side. Then I fiberglassed the mdf ring, down over the clay, and on the backside of the door panel. I did a few layers in whole area around the speaker, probably about a third of the whole panel. I'm just not sure that it improved my midbass. Maybe the door panel doesn't seal against the door frame tight enough or something.
Gotcha. Is your door deadened? When I did my system I deaded the whole thing, sealed up all the wholes and put a layer as far as I could on the doorskin itself. I also used modeling clay to seal up the gaps all around the factory baffle. My midbass response is pretty good for 6.5'*.

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You guys are nuts. Somehow I have the feeling that my Pioneer DEH-4000UB is a perfectly adequate amp even for an enthusiast. Wish I did have all of those adjustments, but I can't say that it sounds bad by any means, and I've had a few cars to compare it to. This is my second Pioneer head unit, the first had that stupid micro fuse blowout. Silly me, I threw it away not knowing it could actually have been used.
The day you realize how sh*tty your system sounds is the day you sit in an SQ comp vehicle and listen to some of your favorite music, that'* what did it for me at least. And while I'll never go through all the pains they go through to achieve such perfectly imaged and staged sound that is amazingly accurate, the day I go back to a passive setup is the day I no longer car about car audio.....and I don't see that happening anytime soon.

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This is extremely tempting compared to making my own box:

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd

This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
I think you could. If your box is only gonna be 1.5 cubes, you could get away with only needed to buy a half sheet of mdf, which out here would run you about $15-$17 at Home Depot. Glue would run you about $5, carpet $5, 4 bolts, nuts and washers for your speaker terminals $5, box of screws $5.....you're still at about $30 so then you could buy yourself some lunch and beer while you're building your custom box. Scosche isn't exactly renowned for it'* high quality products, and with the box being the make or break item in any substage setup, it'* highly recommended that you don't skimp in this department. My vote is custom sealed all the way!!!
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:12 PM   #104
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Gotcha. Is your door deadened? When I did my system I deaded the whole thing, sealed up all the wholes and put a layer as far as I could on the doorskin itself. I also used modeling clay to seal up the gaps all around the factory baffle. My midbass response is pretty good for 6.5'*.
Yeah, I put deadener on the outer door skin and some on the inner door bracing as well. Due to funds I used Fatmat, but it'* better than nothing.

The problem with the Bonneville is the door structure has huge holes and no metal to speak of where the speaker mounts. I didn't have much choice but to mount to the door panel, unless I did some major custom work to the door, which I don't really have the tools and skill for at this time.
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:16 PM   #105
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Yeah, I put deadener on the outer door skin and some on the inner door bracing as well. Due to funds I used Fatmat, but it'* better than nothing.

The problem with the Bonneville is the door structure has huge holes and no metal to speak of where the speaker mounts. I didn't have much choice but to mount to the door panel, unless I did some major custom work to the door, which I don't really have the tools and skill for at this time.
Now I understand what you said earlier about the door panel not sealing up well against the door frame. Man, that sucks.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:15 PM   #106
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What I'd love to do if I had the time/money/skill is mold a couple sealed e8'* into my center console to play from like 50-120/150 hz or so, tune my sub nice and low, and then have my mids pick up at 120-150.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:20 PM   #107
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What I'd love to do if I had the time/money/skill is mold a couple sealed e8'* into my center console to play from like 50-120/150 hz or so, tune my sub nice and low, and then have my mids pick up at 120-150.
That would be sick! I've been thinking about building some kick pods for my components and them glassing in some nice 6.5" mid-woofers into my doors.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:37 PM   #108
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What'* the difference between passive and active in car audio? Do explain.
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:45 PM   #109
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Passive is using external crossovers (consisting of capacitors,resistors, etc) to filter the low stuff to the woofers, high stuff to the tweeters, etc. Active is using your head unit, a electronic crossover, or your amplifiers built in crossovers to do the filtering. Active gives you greater control of the sound and less wasted energy (passive crossovers aren't as efficient, IIRC).
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Old 12-05-2010, 04:21 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremerevolution View Post
This is extremely tempting compared to making my own box:

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd

This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
but thats .75 cu ft before sub displacement. After sub displacment u will be under .7 cu ft.
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