Need some sub advice
12-04-2010, 09:21 PM
#91
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Every brand has head units like that, even Pioneer. If you think you like what you have now, wait till you step up to something like the P880PRS or better, there'* so much stuff you can change settings wise it'll make your head spin. Let'* start with the dual 16-band EQ......i'm getting dizzy already.
I like you, you know your sh*t and have good taste in equipment. I have the dreaded Pico fuse issue too so I feel your pain, but I have to admit that it was my fault that it even happened. One day shortly after I installed wire pants and banana plugs for the speaker wire going in to my sub box I noticed the bass was going in and out (randomly not working) on one of my subs so when I got home I started to wire up each sub directly and independently to the amp to figure out which one was cutting out. The problem is that I left the system playing while I was doing so and when I was removing the speaker wire from the amp I accidentally touched the screwdriver I was using to the case of the amp while it was still touching the speaker terminal
Shorted that damn Pico fuse out with the quickness.
I have been planning on doing the rca ground trick but have heard alot of people say it doesn't cure it 100% in all cases. I can't have anything but 100% so I think I just need to bite the bullet and get a new head unit, and that would be the 9887
Doesn't bother me about the usb thing cause I use an iPod. Plus it can run active, which now that i've experienced it with my current deck I've realized I can't go without it.
I like you, you know your sh*t and have good taste in equipment. I have the dreaded Pico fuse issue too so I feel your pain, but I have to admit that it was my fault that it even happened. One day shortly after I installed wire pants and banana plugs for the speaker wire going in to my sub box I noticed the bass was going in and out (randomly not working) on one of my subs so when I got home I started to wire up each sub directly and independently to the amp to figure out which one was cutting out. The problem is that I left the system playing while I was doing so and when I was removing the speaker wire from the amp I accidentally touched the screwdriver I was using to the case of the amp while it was still touching the speaker terminal
Shorted that damn Pico fuse out with the quickness.I have been planning on doing the rca ground trick but have heard alot of people say it doesn't cure it 100% in all cases. I can't have anything but 100% so I think I just need to bite the bullet and get a new head unit, and that would be the 9887
Doesn't bother me about the usb thing cause I use an iPod. Plus it can run active, which now that i've experienced it with my current deck I've realized I can't go without it.
12-04-2010, 11:29 PM
#92
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What model? On mine I can change xover freq, xover slope,level, time alignment, polarity, 32 band EQ, auto EQ, auto TA, etc. It took a while to learn how to control/set but I'd have it no other way. This is actually my first Pioneer deck, I was a Kenwood/Alpine guy for years.
12-04-2010, 11:40 PM
#94
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12-04-2010, 11:49 PM
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Can you set the slope on your xover freq. set points? Can you tell the deck how far, in inches, each speaker is from you in the drivers seat to ensure the sound from each speaker gets to your headrest at the same time?Does it have a 32 band EQ? Can it automatically set and adjust your EQ based on the freq. response of each speaker? Can it "listen" to your system and determine how far each speaker is from the listening position and set the time alignment automatically? Can it be run 3 way active? The P880PRS does all of that
12-04-2010, 11:52 PM
#97
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No It didnt do all of that. I believe you it was an "older Premier" I would like to have your deck, no question. I havent messed with the new one yet, so ill let u know how it is
12-04-2010, 11:59 PM
#98
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12-05-2010, 12:09 AM
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No. They're installed IB in the door panel. I installed them in the factory hole from the front side. But, the door panel is a kind of flimsy plastic so I wanted to deaden it. On the backside on the panel where the 4 screws that hold my woofer in come through, I put a 6 3/4 mdf ring there. The screws from the speaker go into the ring. Sandwiched between the ring and the plastic panel, I put a small amount of non-hardening modeling clay. Then I put a good amount of clay all the way around the outside of the ring in the .75 inches between the top of the ring and the plastic of the door panel. Then I fiberglassed the mdf ring, down over the clay, and on the backside of the door panel. I did a few layers in whole area around the speaker, probably about a third of the whole panel. It definitely added some weight and strengthened the panel quite a bit. I'm just not sure that it improved my midbass. Maybe the door panel doesn't seal against the door frame tight enough or something.
12-05-2010, 01:01 AM
#100
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You guys are nuts. Somehow I have the feeling that my Pioneer DEH-4000UB is a perfectly adequate amp even for an enthusiast. Wish I did have all of those adjustments, but I can't say that it sounds bad by any means, and I've had a few cars to compare it to. This is my second Pioneer head unit, the first had that stupid micro fuse blowout. Silly me, I threw it away not knowing it could actually have been used.
Maybe one day when I have a car worth dumping money into, I'll upgrade the sound system, but for now, this Regal is a rocket powered daily driver and with 226k miles on the body, its not going to last forever.
The fronts are Polk Audio DB5250 components, the rears are Polk Audio DB690, and each pair is driven by their own Kenwood KAC-7203 2-channel amp, 170W x 4 @ 4 ohms. Perhaps 680W is a bit too much for two sets of stereo speakers, but not only did I get them at cost at best buy (long time ago), but apparently each speaker is rated for 100W RMS so I figured it was a good idea at the time.
Maybe one day when I have a car worth dumping money into, I'll upgrade the sound system, but for now, this Regal is a rocket powered daily driver and with 226k miles on the body, its not going to last forever.
The fronts are Polk Audio DB5250 components, the rears are Polk Audio DB690, and each pair is driven by their own Kenwood KAC-7203 2-channel amp, 170W x 4 @ 4 ohms. Perhaps 680W is a bit too much for two sets of stereo speakers, but not only did I get them at cost at best buy (long time ago), but apparently each speaker is rated for 100W RMS so I figured it was a good idea at the time.