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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 12-03-2010, 05:22 PM   #61
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Box build begins once the 15" Hifonics and 12" Diamond sub get sold...

He recommended I line the inside of the box with fiberglass. Never used fiberglass before...
Dont fret, its a piece of cake! However, I think that'* overkill! It might be worthwhile to coat the inside with fiberglass resin though. Doing that will ensure that the box is sealed (no air leaks) and will make it alot stronger. Now if you had some crazy subs where the motor was as big as the cone diameter then fiberglassing it would be a good idea cause you'd need even more strength and rigidity. But for your appplication it would be a waste of time and money. But if you insist, its a walk in the park.
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Old 12-03-2010, 05:28 PM   #62
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Just do as the pro'* do. turnt he enclosure on a 45 degree slant, one corner at a time and pour resin on each inside corner. so each corner is sealed. My box uses wooden dowel rods for cross bracing, but as MONTELS mentioned ur not going to be pushing huge db'* with this setup so bracing prolly wont be needed. But i do recommend using 45 degree inside corners. I didnt think it would make a differance but it did. Thats in a ported box tho, I believe ur using sealed so that wouldnt be needed either
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:16 PM   #63
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Just do as the pro'* do. turnt he enclosure on a 45 degree slant, one corner at a time and pour resin on each inside corner. so each corner is sealed. My box uses wooden dowel rods for cross bracing, but as MONTELS mentioned ur not going to be pushing huge db'* with this setup so bracing prolly wont be needed. But i do recommend using 45 degree inside corners. I didnt think it would make a differance but it did. Thats in a ported box tho, I believe ur using sealed so that wouldnt be needed either
If anything, I imagine that it might even be more important to use 45 degree corners in a sealed box since the airspace is sealed off and there might be more force against the walls.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:09 PM   #64
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No in this instance i am talking about u actually take a router and bevel the edge of the boards so when u put it all together and look inside the box, the inside corners are bullnosed (45 degree corners) helps the air move more effiently out of a ported box.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:10 PM   #65
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I saw how that got confusing, sorry. two differant procedures i was talking about
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:31 PM   #66
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Just do as the pro'* do. turnt he enclosure on a 45 degree slant, one corner at a time and pour resin on each inside corner. so each corner is sealed. My box uses wooden dowel rods for cross bracing, but as MONTELS mentioned ur not going to be pushing huge db'* with this setup so bracing prolly wont be needed. But i do recommend using 45 degree inside corners. I didnt think it would make a differance but it did. Thats in a ported box tho, I believe ur using sealed so that wouldnt be needed either
So are you saying you heard a difference with the 45'* as opposed to without?

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If anything, I imagine that it might even be more important to use 45 degree corners in a sealed box since the airspace is sealed off and there might be more force against the walls.
Nope. 45'* are done mainly to help the air flow out of the box more smoothly. You're gonna be running sealed so no need for that.

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No in this instance i am talking about u actually take a router and bevel the edge of the boards so when u put it all together and look inside the box, the inside corners are bullnosed (45 degree corners) helps the air move more effiently out of a ported box.
That'* not what you were talking about dude, you were talking about doing resin 45'*. And what do you mean by the corners being bullnosed?

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I saw how that got confusing, sorry. two differant procedures i was talking about
Man, I wonder about you sometimes
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:14 PM   #67
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At first i was talking about slanting the box and resin sealing the joints THEN later in the paragraph i was talking about making the inside corners bullnose (aka not 90 degree corners but rounded)

Then u said the exact same thing I did about 45'* helping air flow out of a sealed box but he didnt need that cause he is using a sealed enclosure
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:35 PM   #68
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Oh yeah? Well here'* what I have to say. My subs will smoke all of yours in pure SQ.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:55 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by raptor660 View Post
At first i was talking about slanting the box and resin sealing the joints THEN later in the paragraph i was talking about making the inside corners bullnose (aka not 90 degree corners but rounded)

Then u said the exact same thing I did about 45'* helping air flow out of a sealed box but he didnt need that cause he is using a sealed enclosure


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Oh yeah? Well here'* what I have to say. My subs will smoke all of yours in pure SQ.
Let'* not forget I have a pair of ID12'* and a sub amp that smokes yours, if you do win it won't be easy
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:19 PM   #70
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Let'* not forget I have a pair of ID12'* and a sub amp that smokes yours, if you do win it won't be easy
Whats the face for MONTE? lol. lets all get along. We have a common interest and are here for X threw these awesome times.

Lets throw my Fi Q into the mix! Hehehe. And I just put my system back in my trunk and wired the sub to 4 ohms (1100w rms) so my bass is clean, crisp, accurate and not ungodly loud. Sounds great with no dimming or voltage drop. Just dont have that getting punched in the back of the head feel. Sounds like a good trade off to me!
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