The only thing i notice different then before i changed the sensors is the rpms seem right now where if i remember before it was always a value like 999.

@carfixer007 since u live near me any recommendations on where i coukd get that done? I would have to tow it in.

I sold my shop in Pennsylvania a year ago and came back to Michigan. I grew up in the Flint area and worked here until 1980 and moved to PA and started a shop.
The only shops I'm familiar with around here are Church and Sons who have three facilities here in the area. Two in Flint and one in Davison. I knew their father who started the business and they are good and I trust them but they are the only ones I know enough about to recommend.
I suggest you call any shop in the area and tell them what you need and they will be able to tell you if they can do it. Pretty straight forward if you have a tool that will do it.

@carfixer007 Ive been to church and son when i lived on that side of town but i was probanly in high school so many years ago:( Thanks for the info though. I guess I will try to call someplace tomorrow.

@carfixer007 @Tech II @Mike @CathedralCub
Thanks to all of you that have helped me. Im a little frustrated that it looks like I will have to take it in to have it looked at after all the time I spent on it. I wilk give you all a quick summary just in case any one has any other ideas. I know a couple of you suggested it could be something other then the sensors I replaced and I could troubleshoot it with a dvm so I feel like I havent done that yet.

summary: crank and cam sensor codes replaced both sensors twice. After second time tried a manual relearn that involved the parking brake which i later learned was the wrong relearn but that resulted in frozen rear parking brake/calipers. I succesfully replaced the calipers and parking break cables. When i went back to the sensors at first it wouldnt start so i checked the fuel presure and it was good 60psi, and then I took the caps off the coil two at a time and seen good spark across each coil. The car started i drove it around the road in front of my house and it kicked the the crank code first then the crank and cam again and it started to run rough so I parked it. I posted all of the scan screens and freeze data. Carfixer suggests that i have to take it in to get a relearn done which I will do but I just want to make sure there isnt anything else Im missing first.

thanks again.

Yesterday I started the car and it ran at idle for 20 minutes without issue then I slowly reved the engine and all seemed fine until I got above 3000RPM and then it started to sputter, loose power and it would sometimes stall. I did this same test 5+ times and it worked the same each time.

If this gives anyone any thoughts.

Did it set a code again? If so it will not likely run right until the relearn is done.

FYI...I do remember a customer once who replaced his crank sensor on a 3.8L GM and din't get the relearn done. He told me some time later that it started working right on it'* own. I can't substantiate his story.

i heard the same thing and i dont have a problem getting the relearn done i just feel like there is something additional going on as well.

i found something else interesting. I drove it around my house and it ran fairly well for 10 to 15 minutes i nevrmer went over 35moh though. Except it did t feel like it had the power it should. I pulled it in the garage and tried to restart it and it would NOT start. I pulled the caps off 6 and 3 at the ignition pack and no spark, dame on 2 and 5, then when i got to 1and 4 i had saprk. When i went back to 6 and 3 it sparked. Is it possible the igition pack or ICM is going bad so one of them is operating sporadically and if so coukd that cause this issue?

The crank signal is vital to the ICM and spark. Not sure if there'* two problems or not. Might be wise to verify the integrity of the wiring for the crank sensor.