I assume you have released the ebrake............what I would try is to pull on each cable where they attach at the backing plate, one at a time, to try and create slack....if that doesn't work, where those two cables come together, back off the adjusting nut......chances are that nut is rusted on the rod......may have to spray with a penetrant like PB Blaster, repeatedly and let it soak.....

AS for changing the cam and crank sensors, one thing to remember, when a code is set, the code is usually named after the sensor in the circuit.....However, when a code is set, it means that anything in that circuit, or anything that can affect the operation of that circuit could be the fault......

How many times,has an O2 sensor code, got a new O2 sensor and didn't fix the problem? Instead it might have been an open/grounded circuit, bad connection, bad ECM/PCM, or vacuum leak/exhaust leak.....

The same with the cam/crank circuits....... before replacement, proper diagnosis is essential.......checking the female connectors at the harness connectors to the sensors and also at the ICM....then a DVM is used to see if the varying signal from each sensor is present at the ICM, as you manually rotate the engine.....

@carfixer007 Great! I appreciate you sticking with me. I was getting frustrated on mynown when it didnt work the first time. Tomorrow when I get out of work I will fix or at least get by the e brake issue thing so I can get back to this part. I do have the freeze frame data from the first time the issue occured. At that time there was one other code that I kinda ignored bc i thought it was just low on coolent or it wa bc it was like 5 degrees it when the issue occured. I will post these so u have the entire picture. Then when i get the e brake fixed I will post the new codes when I can test deive it.

@Tech II Thanks for the help. I did release the e brake (like 30 times). The cables do slack up when i release the e brake ao im leaning towards rusted up stuff in the back. I sprayed them all down with pb blaster tonight before i stopped so i can try again tomorrow after work. I kinda realized as far as the crank sensor goes that it could be something else related but i graviated towards the easest thing I think or at least what I knew. I will get the e brake thing taken care of after work tomorrow hopedully then i can concentrate on the crank issue.

thanks!!!

Just a quick update. I still can't get the e-brake to budge. Its driving me crazy that something like this is haging me up so long. I just sprayed it with PB blaster again but Im loosing my patience with it. The nut and rod are ttoaly rusted and I can't spin the nut at all yet. The wire doesn't seem to be very tight. I've tried pulling on it but it hard b/c almost all of it is covered except the rusty parts.

These things can take multiple attacks with the blaster. Spray it several times a day and just grab the cable and pull on it every time you hit it with blaster. Kind of spin the cable around like you are wringing it'* head. It may take a few more days but it'll get loose.

Well now I did it I broke the cable. Worst thing is both brakes are still stuck???? Any thoughts on that?

Wow....Must have been rusted BAD....You need to try and get something to force them away from the surface.

It was rusted but I helped it out b/c I was getting tired of freezing my butt off trying to get the cable free I thought at least once the cable was free the breaks would open up. You mean find something to force the pads away from the surface? They are really tight so worry if I try a screw driver or something that it will damage the rotors or something and Ive broken enough stuff tonight. Im going backwards on this one. Breaking mroe then Im fixing I wish I knew how that mechanism worked. I can't even figure out why the brake pads are stuck.