08 Grand Prix Crank and cam sensor fiasco please help
#41
Senior Member
@CathedralCub Thanks! Its unfortnunate that I have to rpleace all of that when Iw as originaly trying to fix a crankshaft sensor issue but it is what it is and at least I know what need sto be done now. I'll try to free it again tonight as you described and if that doesn't work then it looks like I will order 2 new calipers and 2 new rotors then put it back together. I don't alwasy know what to do next but when I get instructions I usualy do ok. I changed to calipers on my jeep this summer so I should be able to handel that if it comes to that.
Should I spray the whole back side of the rotor area where the spring is at and the cable attaches to the calliper w/ PB blaster? Is that the right spot? Anything but the pads and front of the rotor is fair game right?
Should I spray the whole back side of the rotor area where the spring is at and the cable attaches to the calliper w/ PB blaster? Is that the right spot? Anything but the pads and front of the rotor is fair game right?
#42
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Yep i have a torch. I will give both options a try. Tha hammer first, then the torch then new calipers. I will be out of town this weekend so i wont get a chance to work on it until Sunday now but the good thing is I think its suppsoed to be a little warmer by then. I will keep you all posted.
#43
Senior Member
True Car Nut
@CathedralCub Its unfortnunate that I have to rpleace all of that when Iw as originaly trying to fix a crankshaft sensor issue but it is what it is and at least I know what need sto be done now.
Yeah, basically any part of the emergency brake mechanism should get sprayed. You can spray all of it including the rotor but that won't help any . . . and depending on what the friction material is made of, it might absorb some of the spray, get a tiny bit thicker, and essentially hold on tighter.
#44
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Yep i have a torch. I will give both options a try. Tha hammer first, then the torch then new calipers. I will be out of town this weekend so i wont get a chance to work on it until Sunday now but the good thing is I think its suppsoed to be a little warmer by then. I will keep you all posted.
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Soft Ride (03-08-2019)
#45
Senior Member
I wouldn't take the caliper bracket off unless you disconnect the brake hose. Otherwise it'll hang there and you will not be able to hold it to work on. Before that see if there'* any room between the stop and the lever. If not you should be able to pry the caliper off easy enough. If so use the hammer and see if it'll collapse and free up. If you have something that you can cut the cable where it comes into the lever would be best.
#46
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I have that tool. I've done the breaks several times on this car. I did cut the cable so now inorder to get it unstuck I have to take the calipers off like I'm doing the brakes and compress the piston then put it back to gethera nd I should be good to go except I will need to get a new E-brake cable and install that before driving. Hopefully I can do that after I fix the original problem though
#48
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#49
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Yeah this is how it rolls sometimes. Doesn't matter the particular make or model in my experience. That'* when you just turn on some 103.1 WQUS and rock out while beating your head on the next step.
Yeah, basically any part of the emergency brake mechanism should get sprayed. You can spray all of it including the rotor but that won't help any . . . and depending on what the friction material is made of, it might absorb some of the spray, get a tiny bit thicker, and essentially hold on tighter.
Yeah, basically any part of the emergency brake mechanism should get sprayed. You can spray all of it including the rotor but that won't help any . . . and depending on what the friction material is made of, it might absorb some of the spray, get a tiny bit thicker, and essentially hold on tighter.
#50
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@carfixer007 @CathedralCub I got home last night so I worked on it tonight for a bit and I made some progress. I got the calipers off without damaging anything major. Yes the pads were clamped very tight, but i was able to get a big screwdriver on top of the rotar and under the caliper and pryed it off. I haven't disconnected the brake line yet but everything else is done. Once I got the caliper turned around so I could see the back the e-brake and that spring mechanism made allot more sense. It would have been good if I knew how that worked earlier. I may have saved the right side e-brake line. If you put a screw driver on the top of that spring you can relieve the presure its kind of like a mouse trap except it snaps snowly when you pry the spring up. On the right side I was able to release the e brake line pretty easy. With that being said it appers the issue was that spring mechanism on both calipers once the e brake cable was pulled that mechanism never opened again until I pryed it open. So now I assume I need to just replace both calipers and caliper brackets and replace at least the left side e-brake line I cut earlier on? Ive done calipers before but not with an e brake like this. I should be able to handle the calipers ok I may strugle getting that e brake line off but we will see. Any one see any issues with that plan? These calipers are expensive so I think Im going to order them from Rock auto or somewhere. Seem to be alot cheaper then autozone. Once i get this done maybe we can get back to analyzing the original problem! Thanks for staying with me on this. I will probably take me until this weekend to get the calipers changed then i will be back to hopefully knock the other problem out asap.