Yeah, that'* a good plan from my point of view.

I'm not sure you need to replace the calipers or brackets. Did the pistons break from prying them out? What happened to the brackets?

The pistons did not break and the brackets are currently still attached to the caliper. I just took the two bracket bolts out and then sat the screw driver on top of the rotar and pryed the entire caliper and bracket assebly upwards. It was stuck but it wasn't too bad to get off actualy. The rotars are fine (I actualy replaced the rotars and pads on this car about a year ago). As far as the rotars go the only thing I worry about is the parking brake meachanism. I don't think that thing works right. The regular braking system seems fine. I don't totaly know how the parking brake sping mechanism works but it concerns me. I don't want the same thing to happen if my duaghter uses the parking brake when she is away from home. I would love to save the money on the calipers but Im not sure how to test the or make sure the parking brake mechanism works properly. Like I said I stuck a screw driver in spring latch thing and when you push that up it releases the strain on the parking brake cable. When I pushed the parking brake that spring mechansim froze up on both calipers and even when the cable was released the caliper mechansim wouldn't open on its own to free the mechanism. That is what I assume the actualy issue was the whole time. The caliper spring/parking brake mechanism not the cables which is why no matter how hard I pulled, cut, hit the cables it never fixed the issue b/c it was downstream at the caliper. I ordered both the right and left parking brake lines b/c I cut the left one and I figured I would just make both sides the same if I was going to do it. Tonight or tomorrow I will try to get those both off the car so I can repalce them easily when the cables get here in two days. I really had a hard time finding information on how that parking brake mechanism on this car works. I didn't find a simgle video about it online which is ammazing to me.

I think the only way you can be sure these calipers will work reliably would be to replace them with quality units that have a warranty. You'll probably get another 151,000 miles out of the new ones.

The way these calipers work for parking is the piston has a nut on the inside and the parking brake lever turns a screw that interacts with the nut. This will pull the caliper and cause the pads to grip the rotor. The piston also contains a self adjusting mechanism for the parking brake. I've rebuilt these before but it don't seem you can get a kit today. New looks like the only way to go.

If the spring is not able to return the lever to it'* resting place on it'* own you would need to repair or replace the caliper.
Without a cable attached does it not return to it'* resting place?

That is correct they do not return on their own. I can open and close them with a screw driver and some prying but that don't snap close dor open on their own w/o the cable in place.

Like I said I stuck a screw driver in spring latch thing and when you push that up it releases the strain on the parking brake cable. When I pushed the parking brake that spring mechansim froze up on both calipers and even when the cable was released the caliper mechansim wouldn't open on its own to free the mechanism. That is what I assume the actualy issue was the whole time. The caliper spring/parking brake mechanism not the cables which is why no matter how hard I pulled, cut, hit the cables it never fixed the issue b/c it was downstream at the caliper.

I ordered both the right and left parking brake lines b/c I cut the left one and I figured I would just make both sides the same if I was going to do it.

Terminology.....brake line carries the fluid to the various brake calipers....brake cables are for the parking brake.....Since you are fixing this for your daughter and want it to work properly I would suggest you replace all cables that do not move freely within their sheaths.

Ha. Yes I meant cable not brake line Make sense I will repalce any cable that doesn't move freely (and the one I cut)

The cables come in tomorrow so I will get those done tomorrow while its warm.

Is there anything I can do while Im waiting for the brake parts to start to diagnose the crankshaft/camshaft sensor / other misolanous issue while Im waiting or do I basicaly have to fix the brakes take the car for a ride and then when it kicks error codes post the error codes w/ the freeze frame data and then we can start to diagnose?

I understand now. I was having a problem with your terminology or my limited intelligence. At any rate, short of disassembly of the calipers new is the way to go.
When i get back from church I'll fire up my service literature PC and get you started on the start problem. With your determination we'll figure it out.

Well when it rains it pours. My service lit PC is on the fritz. Let'* see if one of the other guys can give us the wiring diagrams and flow charts for your codes.
Before that though I would use a scan tool and do the relearn. Some of these just will not clear without doing the relearn with the scan tool. In my experience it requires the tool more times than not. You can spend many hours and trying new parts and will not work until the scan tool is used to do the relearn.

BTW I remember these codes setting at the same time usually ended up being the ICM rather than it being either cam or crank sensor problems. Another thing, the relearn you were performing was for idle relearn and not crank. I talked to the guy that bought my shop when I retired and he told me that you MUST use the scan tool to do the relearn after replacing the crank sensor.