That rubber boot is the boot covering one of the caliper slides. I dont think these have drums. There are really only four main pieces the hub, the rotar, caliper and the pads. Unless im totaly missing the boat on this which is possible. Ive done the brakes on this car several times over the years. I had a hard time geting good pics bc thr car is in the way. Im attaching some pics of the caliper from O'Reilly'* website and a couple more of my car.

Agree with Carfixer.......if you remove the caliper, and then try to rotate the rotor, you will see the rotor does not move...it'* the ebrake cable causing your problem.....

If the cables are rusted bad and need replacement, then just cut them to release the ebrake shoe........

I remember those things. They are NOT the drum style. These you need a special tool to screw the piston back in when doing the pads. Strange setup. Remove the caliper bolts and get a bar and force it off the rotor. You may be able to find the tool (looks like a 1 inch cube with little ***** on the corners) to turn the piston back in.

Here'* the tool you need.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah, the emergency-brake mech on the back of the piston is the giveaway. These are the European kind. Well, I say European because that'* where I dream they came from after monkeying with them on VW, Ford (on the Five Hundred which is a Volvo design), and a few others. Now, back to my first version:

Usually with these (without the emergency brake stuck) you can pry against the pad with a big flat-head screwdriver to loosen the pad enough to slide pads+caliper off, then monkey with the special tool and piston(*) etc. If you are doing a normal pad replacement on these and don't have the tool, you can also compress with a C-clamp and turn the piston with a big pair of channel locks. If doing it this way, be careful not to apply much force with the C-clamp, turn the piston often, and be careful to avoid damaging the boot.

So that'* normal land.

In greentsarfish03'* world, I can't see an easy way to get the caliper off without damaging stuff . . . UNLESS he gets the emergency brake freed up first. That'* a lot of friction to overcome. All the more reason to have the pedal attendant press really hard and hope he can free up the emergency-brake mech. I think that if this doesn't work, the next resort would be to un-bolt the caliper bracket and take the bracket, caliper, pads, and rotor off all together, then try to free it up. At this point the brake line will have had to be opened and bad things will happen to the caliper to un-clamp it . . . and the caliper will need replacing anyways for the emergency-brake issue. So, based on that, it might be a good idea to NOT fight with it and replace the rotor and caliper and put it back together with the original caliper bracket.

I have that tool. I've done the breaks several times on this car. I did cut the cable so now inorder to get it unstuck I have to take the calipers off like I'm doing the brakes and compress the piston then put it back to gethera nd I should be good to go except I will need to get a new E-brake cable and install that before driving. Hopefully I can do that after I fix the original problem though

Yep I have that so no problem. I just didn't realize I needed to do that. I guess I suspected that fixing or cutting the brake cable would fix it. I didn't relaize I would need to do this as well. I have life time pads on this car so I guess I will get new pads while Im at it.

@CathedralCub Thanks! Its unfortnunate that I have to rpleace all of that when Iw as originaly trying to fix a crankshaft sensor issue but it is what it is and at least I know what need sto be done now. I'll try to free it again tonight as you described and if that doesn't work then it looks like I will order 2 new calipers and 2 new rotors then put it back together. I don't alwasy know what to do next but when I get instructions I usualy do ok. I changed to calipers on my jeep this summer so I should be able to handel that if it comes to that.

Should I spray the whole back side of the rotor area where the spring is at and the cable attaches to the calliper w/ PB blaster? Is that the right spot? Anything but the pads and front of the rotor is fair game right?