4T80E/Turbo-S/C... TIME FOR A NEW THREAD?
Originally Posted by pontiacjeff
Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
The red car at the top-right corner should be shown behind your own. That should be the image at the corner. 

I think that car is very special to Teubk. If it'* shown as losing to yours, though it would, it might be kind of strange. I can't think of a better word.
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UGH!!!!!!!! Coolant in the engine... ARP head studs leaking, one on the front head leaking externally, one in the back leaking internally. Both heads have to come off......
Also, three of the valve seals lost the little springs, they were laying in the rocker valley. A piece of blue valve seal was down there, too. I noticed just this morning a smal amount of blue smoke on start up... the keepers are hitting the seals. DOH!!!!!!
I am so not loking forward to ulling all this crap apart again! And in the car, too!
Oh, well, off I go tonight!
Also, three of the valve seals lost the little springs, they were laying in the rocker valley. A piece of blue valve seal was down there, too. I noticed just this morning a smal amount of blue smoke on start up... the keepers are hitting the seals. DOH!!!!!!
I am so not loking forward to ulling all this crap apart again! And in the car, too!
Oh, well, off I go tonight!
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With the */c and v.c'* off, I have a good lok at the heads. I cleaned real good aorund the head studs nuts and pressurized the cooling system. It does NOT appear the studs are leaking on the inside. The LIM bolts were about 1/2 turn from "tight", so I snugged them up. The one front stud is still leaking a tad, but one GM cooling system pellet should take care of that. I am calling ARP to ask about retq on the studs... maybe it coming around the h.g? I went 6500rpm and 300+whp and the h.g. didn;t let loose, so I can;t imagine that'* it.......
ARP turned on the machine at 5min til close, so funk them! A quick Yahoo search showed up most in favor of re-tq and only a few no. I have a vauge memory now of ARP tech telling me to re-tq and thinking what a PITA it would be to do it. SO with the slightly loose LIM bolts tight and no sign of water coming up the studs (ex that pone external stud), I think I will re-tq the studs and replace the v.seals on the motor.
ARP turned on the machine at 5min til close, so funk them! A quick Yahoo search showed up most in favor of re-tq and only a few no. I have a vauge memory now of ARP tech telling me to re-tq and thinking what a PITA it would be to do it. SO with the slightly loose LIM bolts tight and no sign of water coming up the studs (ex that pone external stud), I think I will re-tq the studs and replace the v.seals on the motor.
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Well, the heads are off. A few of the studs were weeping after all. I pressurized the system and let it sit for an hour. It'* not as much as I would think, but the engine was cold, so it might leak more when hot. I am thinking of using Cometic h.g'*. If I can get a set in two days. Otherwise, I'll use the stock GM */c gaskets again. It'* 24psi v/* 30psi. I mihgt need more than 24psi to get what I want, we'll see....
Here'* the mess. The trans looks huge compared ot the short block! LOL!





A couple pics of the dp running past the firewall, it'* a tight fit, but never had a bump or rattle!


Here'* the mess. The trans looks huge compared ot the short block! LOL!





A couple pics of the dp running past the firewall, it'* a tight fit, but never had a bump or rattle!


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Originally Posted by F14CRAZY
I know the feeling when you've got to tear things down again..there aren't enough bad words to fully express the discontent 
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Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
Hey, now you can put Willwren'* special sauce on your engine parts!


