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Old 01-31-2010, 09:27 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by Nighthwk12 View Post
Yeah can cause a short anywhere once that plug is compromised
But the plug never opened up to expose wiring/connectors to ground. Even the pins look like they are still straight.

The female connector he is holding, is barely melted, which tells me the male connector is still in decent shape.

Nevermind. He must of posted the picture right before I posted.
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:43 PM   #102
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Dan...this is just a minor set back. Before you know it...she'll be up pounding ricers into the roundabout in no time!
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:46 PM   #103
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I know, just disappointed, was looking forward to taking it for a spin. I'll figure it out. Figures the one sensor I don't have a extra of would go out.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:07 AM   #104
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Dont you have a WBo2?

That should be able to sim a narrow band sensor until you get a new replacement o2.
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:28 AM   #105
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Ya, I do, but I'll just wait. I'm pulling the supercharger off to reseal the gaskets.
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:29 AM   #106
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Tested the extension today and no broken wires or shorts. Will need to check on how to test the sensor.
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:34 AM   #107
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Would this help?
Quote:
Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.

Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:38 AM   #108
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I'll be sure to give that a try today.
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:49 AM   #109
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Quote:
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Would this help?
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I'll be sure to give that a try today.
That sounds like a test for an unheated one wire o2, I am pretty sure ours are 4 wire heated sensors that ground through a wire. There will be a sensor feed and ground, and a heater feed and ground. IIRC
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:51 AM   #110
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Yes, we have a 4 wire.
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