With fuse 9C pulled, the reading across maxi fuse #3 is 0.00
Yes there is lots of moisture/dampness that I found when I was locating both ground buses.

Can you locate what was clicking when drawing 4.85 amps?
Are the headlights &/or interior lights coming on when drawing 4.85 amps?

No to the headlights, and the interior lights wouldn't be coming on with the Mall disconnected. I'll try to isolate the source of the sound. Did we narrow it down at all by getting a zero amp reading with fuse 9c pulled?

That clicking is coming from a large (10lb) aluminum unit that rests beside the air box. Must have something to do with the PCM, as there are numerous wires going in & out of it including yellow air bag wires (maybe it'* the airbag control box)??

9c is for the radio, amp(if you have the Bose sys.) HVAC programmer, instrument cluster & adaptive lamp monitor control module. So no we didn't narrow it down much but everything helps. I have a theory on the original problem but don't know why the blower motor started acting up. Reconnect everything & see if you can locate the clicking.

The clicking that I hear from the engine compartment everytime I connect or disconnect the neg battery cable is coming from the ABS controller, which is below the air box, and beside the larger aluminum metal unit that Iealier thought was the source.

I'll look at some diagrams & see if I can tell why that started clicking.

Here'* my theory on the original problem. Either a lose of power/ground or a fault in the RFA module was causing it to constantly send a signal to the mall to unlock the doors. That signal also tells the mall to turn on the interior lights. The lights & locks were'nt working because of the driver'* side ground bus. Once the ground bus got wet enough it completed the circuit & caused the lights & locks to stay on.

All these components are interconnected: RFA, MALL, Lamp Control Module, Adaptive Lamp Control Module, Headlights, Interior Lights, Exterior lights, Alarm, Door switches, Door locks, Door lock switches & maybe a couple more I'm forgetting.

Next thing I would do is remove the seats & carpeting so you can find & repair the leak. While doing that I would check power & grounds to each module with the test light.

It sounds like you can leave fuse 9c out & drive the car without killing the battery. Make sure the headlights & tail/brake lights work without that fuse.

Would there be one power & one ground going to each module? So, it sounds like we may know what happened, but not how to fix it.......... Is it recommended then to replace the RFA module, now that the heater control, and mall have been done? The clicking sound I mentioned was not a constant click, click, click. It clicked once when I completed the battery circuit, then no more noise.

Some of the modules have multiple grounds & power sources.

Mall:
Terminal D is a ground (pass ground bus)
Terminal G is Hot at all times (Door locks fuse 1)
Terminal H is Hot at all times (CTSY LP/PWR MIRROR Fuse 6a)
Terminal C13 is Hot with key on (IGN/CHIME CLSTR Fuse 1d)

RFA:
Terminal E15 is Hot with key on (IGN/CHIME CLSTR Fuse 1d)
Terminal E16 is Hot at all times (RAC/TRUNK RELEASE Fuse1)
Terminal F15 is Hot with key on (WPR/WSHR Fuse 8e)
Terminal F16 is a ground (drivers ground bus)

Lots of interesting things happening with this one. I was doing a little more searching as well looking for commonality between things. The only thing I noticed so far is that the traction control/ABS switch is is also grounded to ground 202 (behind the driver'* side kick panel) which is where the drivers side gorund bus gets its feed and the driver'* door light (I think that was the one that sparked just before the TCC/ABS lights remained on. It probably dosn't mean anything, but I am trying to be of some help where I can. A lot of things keep pointing to theat ground or the ground bus.

Bob, I double checked that ground point near the emerg brake, and all is good. I've got so many things torn apart on this car now, it'll take me a week before I could drive it even if I found & fixed the problem. :( Between yesterday & today, I've got about 10 cold hours laying on the floor of this car, and the cause of this whole thing more than anything seems to be water/rust/corrosion related. Aside from stripping apart all the interior, moldings, and panels, there just doesn't seem to be a likely fix. :?