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Old 03-13-2008, 03:13 PM
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That'* good info, Don. So, I went and checked the RPO listings in Techinfo and it has 1SA, 1AB, etc., but the description just says "option group". Is there a list somewhere that itemizes what options/features each of these groups came with, so the RPO codes in Techinfo can inlcude a more descriptive detail?

Itzrock, I am positive you have remote entry, so when you get the fob, a little self-programming by you should have it operational in no time.

EDIT: NEVERMIND, I just looked at the dealer brochure again, and it lists most (if not all) the features for the various 1S"X" option groups, by model.

For an SSE or SSEi, 1SA and 1SB include remote keyless entry
Old 03-16-2008, 09:15 AM
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Default ground bus not the issue

Echo, I spent an hour Saturday dis-assembling, cleaning, greasing, and re-assembling both the driver & passenger side ground bus connections. A couple strange things did happen though.... Right after I finished the cleaning, and with the keys out of the ignition, the heater fan motor would cycle on & off (high speed) continuously. Keep in mind, the car is off, no key. When I put the key back in to check what the climate control was actually set at, it was off, no heater, no A/C???????? What the @&^%. Next thing I noticed, before I started the intensive cleaning, the interior lights, chimes & locks were on full time, now they are back to sporadic. Over a four hour period, they worked twice for about ten minutes each. The problem that this is also going to create is that even with a new programmed keyless entry fob, it will not work if this cycle is off (i.e. power locks not functioning)... I think I did locate the little black box under the dash in the passenger side with two (1 small, 1 large) harnesses. How does it unclip from the white plastic bracket that is holding it? Plus, is this the remote module, or the Mall module? I was less frustrated doing my first total engine rebuild than I'm getting with this electrical nightmare....
Old 03-17-2008, 03:44 PM
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Yikes!

Ok, now that the ground busses are cleaned up, we can eliminate them from the possibilites.

My FSMs are at home, but I will get a better description of the exact locations and hopefully how to remove the RFA and the MALL.

Here are some pics of what each looks like

RFA
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MALL
Name:  MALL.jpg
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Were you able to perform the MALL diagnostic tests posted in the link on page 1?
Old 03-17-2008, 10:32 PM
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Default regarding the mall....

When I started the MALL diagnostics as outlined, I had a feeling it wouldn't work quite as planned, mainly because most of the diagnostics include items which aren;t working. However, I did proceed. Of ALL the tests, the only one that made a "BONG" was applying the parking brake. Other than that, no other dings, dongs, lights etc. As a side note, like I explained, after cleaning the ground buses, the interior lights, power locks, and DIC remained dead, but when I performed the procedure to enter the MALL diagnostic sequence, they all came back on, To no avail, as the test failed to show anything as the direct problem. I also checked the little black box(whether its the Mall or Rac) for bad connections, couldn't find anything wrong. Even wiggling all incoming & outgoing wires from the box made no difference. Immediately after finishing the diagnostics, and turning off the ignition, my interior lights, locks, and sounds from the DIC stopped working again. Interesting, maybe, a positive sign, not at all. There must be an easier way to isolate a problem, other than relying on a malfunctioning computer for help. Every fuse, in both the drivers side interior panel, and the maxi panel under the hood are good and operational. Fusible links are never visible, nor easily tested, so if they exist, there might be the problem.
Old 03-18-2008, 10:36 AM
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OK. So, I suspect either the MALL is bad (iin my opinioin the most likely) or there is an issue with the wiring. I can begin posting the testing procedures, but, again, they require the use of a multi-meter, and maybe a test light and a fused jumper to test teh circuits.
Old 03-18-2008, 01:48 PM
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Default cost to replace

What would it cost to replace the MALL with a new from the dealer (or where ever), rather than risking a junkyard one that might end up being junk too? The little black box I saw is directly above the passenger footwell clipped onto a white frame. I haven't quite figured out how to reove it from the frame without busting something. I'm assuming the other module would be closer to the fuses etc to the right of this first one?? One other thing I noticed; if my locks, interior light, and the DIC chimes aren't working, they all come back to life if I disconnect & reconnect the battery. Almost seems like it'* resetting something. BUT, even when they do come back on, they don't work properly, as there is no way to turn off the lights......
Old 03-18-2008, 02:49 PM
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From ROCKAUTO.com: ACDELCO Part # 10427827 {replaces 10419780}
Category: Body Control Module = $60.79

From GMPartsDiect.com: GM PART # 10427827
CATEGORY: Body Multifunction Computer Connector/Module
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $95.99
OUR PRICE: $49.92
DESCRIPTION: BCM

I will double check the removal instructions, but I think it was something like slide up and lift out, but please wait until I can check the FSM for their exact wording
Old 03-18-2008, 04:22 PM
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Default ordered a module

Had to order from Rockauto at the higher price because the other won't ship to Canada. HOPEFULLY, with a new remote, and a new MALL module, we'll either solve the issue, or get closer to the problem.....
Old 03-18-2008, 05:06 PM
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I am 99% convinced that a new MALL will solve your problems. Interestingly enough, in doing some internet research, I found several places that identified a recall for the MALL for Bonneville for the 1996 model year. Although you have a '97, it kind of supports the idea that these modules might be troublesome.

NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 95V204000
Recall Date: 10/23/1995
Component: 1996 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:ANTI-THEFT CONTROLLER
Potential Units Affected: 32869

Summary:
THESE VEHICLES WERE ASSEMBLED WITH A MALFUNCTION ALARM, LIGHTING AND LOCKING (MALL) MODULE THAT CAN CONTAIN A DAMAGED CAPACITOR. IF THE CAPACITOR IS DAMAGED, THE "KEY IN THE IGNITION" WARNING CHIME AND THE DRIVER SEAT BELT UNBUCKLED WARNING CHIME AND INDICATOR LAMP MAY NOT WORK. THIS DOES NOT MEET THE REQUIREMENTS OF FMVSS NO. 114, "THEFT PROTECTION" AND FMVSS NO. 208, "OCCUPANT CRASH PROTECTION." IN ADDITION, OTHER CHIME REMINDER FUNCTIONS, INTERIOR LIGHTING CONTROLS, AND POWER DOOR LOCKING FEATURES ARE ALSO AFFECTED.
Consequence:
CONSEQUENCE OF NON-COMPLIANCE; THE DRIVER MAY NOT BE AWARE THAT THE KEY WAS LEFT IN THE IGNITION OR THAT THE SAFETY BELT WAS NOT BUCKLED.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT AND, IF REQUIRED, REPLACE THE MALL MODULE.
Potential Units Affected: 32869
Old 03-19-2008, 12:57 AM
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FSM says the following:

"Press down on center tab of mounting bracket and slide module downward until mounting rails disengage."

Install says:

"Slide module forward into place until mounting rails align and locking tab engages."

It appears that that there is a tab that is located pretty much in the center of the mounting bracket/plate/surface that locks into slot/hole in the bottom (the large, flat bottom side) center of the module. If you press down on the center of the bracket/plate/surface, probably just below the bottom of the module itself, it will flex enough to move the tab down far enough out of the slot for tyou to slide down the module down (toward the floor). Hard to tell from the diagram in the FSM, but there also appears to be tabs on each side of the module (the tabs that you see in the picture) , that "slide" underneath rails on each side at the top of the bracket.


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