Echo, when I ordered the replacement Mall module, I went by the part number you quoted in the post. Now that I've been able to get mine removed, it has a different number on it: (10292316). It does look exactly like the one in the pic you posted, I'm just worried about the different part number, especially since it cleared Canada customs today, and I'll be receiving it Monday. Also, it appears things have gotten worse since that intense cleaning of the ground buses. Earlier in this topic, I mentioned that after the cleaning, my heater fan motor was cycling on & off continuously without even a key in the car, and with the fan control off. It seems it has continued to do this, because as of today, it has drained (completely) a 5 day old premium battery that I just bought. To the point where I can't even get it to hold a charge after 12 hours on a charger!!!! Its strange that this heater motor stuff Never appeared before the ground cleaning. And how could there possible be power to the heater fan with no key, no ignition....... I'm now beginning to wonder if the time and expense of these repairs is even worth it... At least prior to starting them, I could still drive the car, now with the fan motor running 24 hours a day, I can't leave the driveway. :(

I disconnected both modules(RFA/MALL), double checked the drivers side ground bus again(thats where the corrosion was worse), and still the heater fan motor was running full tilt with no key. Even when I pulled the plug on the actual blower motor under the hood, you could still hear it cycling on and off, with the display lit on the climate control. When I pulled the fuse, it all finally stopped. So I now know, that neither module, or the ground bus is playing any part in the blower motor acting up.... Oh cool, another electrical problem to sort out that wasn't there when I started.....

The part #10427827 that you ordered is the part you will need. Many times, the number changes from the original part #* used by GM or the part itself has been changed

Even on AC-Delco'* own site, the part number comes up as 10427827
http://www.acdelco.com/parts/index.jsp

I am SO sorry to hear that the blower motor is now giving you fits. I can't imagine that is a result of the ground bus cleanings, but it sure seems too coincidental. I hope I didn't cause you to create another problem that didn't exist before

As far as the fan motor running, it appears that others have recently had something similar if not the same. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=95445

I will have to see in the FSM if the blower control module is connected one of the ground busses and how the circuitry works.. If it is, maybe during your cleaning or inspection a pin in one of the ground busses is not seeded properly.

Also, I am sure I didn't mention this before (another oops ), but I feel there are two things that we should always do before working on anything electrical on the car.

1) Turn OFF the HVAC system, especially if you have the automatic climate control. We have had too many instances where the airmix acutator gear cracks after people have disconnected then reconnected power. If you have an automaitc climate control, then make sure it is OFF, not on "AUTO" or any other setting until the battery is reconnected and the car restarted. Same goes for If you have the manual HVAC with *****.

2) I always disconnect the battery before working on anything electrical, just in case. I am not sure if cleaning or disconnecting a ground bus with the battery still connected could cause an issue (I hope not), but I suppose anything is possible with these cars and the reatained accessory power functions.

I appreciate the links to earlier posts regarding blower motors, but aside from running out and buying that module too, it doesn't make sense that this just started. I can see if it has been an ongoing issue, but not in this case. Even if the module is bad for the blower, it doesn't explain why it'* suddenly getting live power all the time.

Rec'd & installed the brand new MALL module today, it didn't make ANY difference at all. All the same problems still exist. I can see how this process of elimination is going to cost more than the car is worth. I am totally at a loss now, especially since the heater blower started acting up, and has managed to puke a 5 day old premium battery, Even now, with the heater control module removed, as soon as I replaced the mall, & boosted the car to get it going, you can hear the clicking sound of cycling to try to turn on the fan motor. It doesn't matter that I manually shut it off, as soon as I reconnect the battery, it goes onto high fan mode again. I already have a new heater control module ordered & on the way, plus a keyless remote(that won't work at all with the current electrical issues), so with the new battery I just bought, I'm about $500.00 in, with no end in sight.....

Definitely NOT happy to hear that the new MALL didn't help. :( Our goal, here, all the time, is to NOT have you throw money at the problem, but to find a real solution. This is very frustrating, but I guess it is time to go through, step-by-step, testing circuits. Please don't spend any mmore money until we can nail down the cause of the problem.

Echo, I think we've somewhat narrowed down the problem to an electrical (or ground) short,rather than an actual electrical module, simply by replacing the heart of the positive power in the loop. What ever is the cause of the interior lights/locks/DIC chimes working only sporadically, is likely the same cause of the sudden runaway high speed blower motor. The plus side is, if we find that shorting problem, I'll have a brand new Mall, brand new Heater control module, and a brand new keyless entry fob (which I've never had for this car). So, all money complaints aside, as everyone knows, the two modules I'm replacing needlessly at this point, where likely destined to fail at some point anyway (given their history of failing prematurely)..... My memory as a long ago mechanic reminds me that we've now done the easy part, replaced the visible components. Now the individual wire testing begins, which is basically an open money ticket for garages & dealerships because they sell you nothing but LABOR! Man, I truly hate this part..... You set me up to where I should start testing, and (weather permitting), I'll get er done....

Let'* try one more thing with the passenger side ground bus. Run a wire from the negative battery terminal to the metal bar in the ground bus.

If that doesn't help we can check the wiring going to the mall. Instead of using a mutimeter you should make a test light using a 12 volt light bulb.

Thanks for joining us TT. I keep coming back to the passenger side ground bus as well, thinking it is not doing its job, or there is a terminal itself that is loose or not grounding.

I think we have definitely narrowed down the problem to wiring/connector/terminal issue. First steps (after doing what TT has recommended above) will indeed be double checking fuses and involving a test lamp. I would also suggets insuring double checking that all terminal connections at teh ground bus on the passenger side are clean and TIGHT. The ground connection for the bus istelf is located behind the kick panel on the passneger side, but being in that location, I suspect it wouldn't be the issue.

Also, let'* reaffirm what is 9or isn't ) hppening as the car sits today:

Do you have any chimes at all? Do any interior lights work? Do any power lock mechanisms work?

To answer your question as to what the car is acting like right now:
I installed the new Mall module, as I said no difference. The function of the original items is still very much sporadic, i.e. yesterday, the interior light * worked, DIC chimed, and the power locks worked. Last nite, nothing worked, and the car hasn't been driven in almost a week. New twist, I mentioned earlier that whatever the problem with the blower was, it has killed a new battery(never had any battery issues prior to starting this repair), so with $125.00 down the bowl for the first new battery, that now won't even hold a charge, I pulled a 6 month old (875cca) from my Impala SS so I could run some more tests.... Left it connected overnite(yes I'm an idiot), and this morning, it'* fried too... Next best part, today I rec'd the new remote with programming instructions, unfortunately, you have to have a live battery to do anything! P.*., there isn't even a heater control module in the car (it'* on my desk awaiting it'* new replacement), so it is definately not the constantly running blower that'* puking the batteries, the blower fan is NOT plugged into anything.... What is going on with this nightmare? As much as it was a pain to have on/off sporadic lights/locks/chimes, the car was still drivable everyday, now, it needs a heart transplant, and a third battery. Whatever it'* draining electrically, it'* a big enough draw where it drains the battery beyond the capability of recharging....