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Old 03-29-2008, 01:14 PM   #61
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I've just been looking for nicked or bare positive wires that may be touching something they shouldn't. My local auto store only has meters that have a high range of 10amps. Going to pick it up shortly. Do you think that will be enough, or should I wait and find one that has a higher amp DC Amp rating?
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:25 PM   #62
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The only things I can think of that would draw more than 10 amps are a faulty alternator or starter. You could put a 10 amp fuse between the neg cable & bat. If the fuse doesn't blow you'll be safe. Try to get a meter that has a fuse for the 10 amp range.
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:34 PM   #63
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Sorry I haven't been around today to help this morning. My daughters have a dance competition today. One is done (sort of, except for awards), but another has to go in about 45 minutes and we won't be done for about 5-6 hours. I am checking and following to try to help out when I can and I will be on later to this afternoon to provide any assistance I can.

FWIW, here is a link with my write-up when I had a parasitic drain that was killing my battery overnight. It'* a long read but it may be helpful as it discusses what to set the meter on and where to touch leads:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ight=parasitic
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:23 PM   #64
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Getting a 4.85 reading when set on the 10 setting. Obviously, a huge draw. When I had the meter hooked between the neg cable, and neg post as it was getting it'* reading, I can hear something under the hood click, which means that the test leads of the meter have completed whatever the circuit is that'* clicking. So next tests should be to pull one fuse at a time, take another reading, until I find one that drops it drastically..... Test just the fuses under the drivers side dash, or all the maxi fuses, and passenger side fuse box above the right footwell???

Tried the big maxi fuse panel first: only two pulls made any difference:
with the MISC LGT 60A pulled, the draw went from aprox 4.85 to 2.20
with the LCM HDLP 30A lulled, the draw went from aprox 4.85 to 3.16
Not much help in narrowing it down from that.....
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:58 PM   #65
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Wow - that is huge. I'm assuming the keys were out of the ignition & all the doors were closed. I'd start with the driver'* side fuse panel but it really doesn't matter, you have to keep checking til you find it.
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Old 03-29-2008, 04:29 PM   #66
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I just sent you the Power Distribution wiring diagrams. What'* the reading if you pull those 2 fuses at the same time.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:12 AM   #67
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Been doing some more research on wiring and the blower/blower control/HVAC programmer. After you get done doing what TT suggests above, I have a place that may be worth starting for checking battery draw while pulling fuses one at a a time. First, would be fuse 11 in the passenger side realy center (next to where the RFA and MALL are). This is the A/C feedback fuse that connects to the HVAC programmer for blower feedback and is tied internally in the HVAC programmer to blower spped control. With fuse 11 pulled, ignition off, all doors closed, and all accessories off, take a 10A reading between the neg. cable and the battery post. If drain is still present, put fuse 11 back in, then pull fuse 9C from the drivers side fuse panel (same process above, ignition off, all doors closed, and all accessories off) and take a reading. 9C is the "hot at all times" fuse for the HVAC programmer.
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:54 AM   #68
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TT, with both of the above mentioned maxi fuses pulled, I get a reading of 1.81. Still way high, but a good drop from 4.85.... Echo, I will go out & try your test next.....

The fuses in the passenger side box are not in any way numbered, a little hard to tell which is which. I went back to drivers side, and one at a time pulled each & every fuse. Out of all of them only FUSE 6A changed the reading from 4.85 to 1.90.

This is not a good sign, as the process of elimination is supposed to mean that you eliminate all the good, and are left with the bad. The only thing left to test is the 7 small fuses in the passenger side panel, then all of the 6 or 7 relays there. Then what?

Just did all the passenger side fuses & relays, no changes at all.

If I unplug just the small black connector on the Mall, reading drops to 1.45.
If I unplug just the large connector on the Mall, reading is 1.35
If I unplug both connectors on the Mall and take it out of the equation, the reading drops to an amazing .38

I tried this with both the old & new mall, only difference being, with both plugs installed in the new, the reading is 4.85, in the old it is less at 3.46.

All of this done with an outside temp of only 31 degrees F, and a 25mph cross wind. Can't feel the fingers anymore........

I noticed throughout every test, as soon as the meter probes made contact with the neg post & cable(completed the battery circuit) that there is something near the front drivers side headlight/breather ***'y that clicks on, and thats when the spike to 4.85 shows up. Is there a module or relay bank there? Something electrical is engaging with a click upon receiving a complete 12v circuit...
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:42 PM   #69
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Didn't realize you had updated your post. Is the RFA connector 1 of 2 you unplugged from the mall? If not unplug the RFA & the 2 mall connectors.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:53 PM   #70
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With both the Mall, and the Rfa totally disconnected, the reading is .32.
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