TT, Thanks for the help today, and the module connection list (those I will check tomorrow).
There is tons of rust, moisture corrosion etc on this car, thats why I bought it as a winter beater primarily. I do love this car, it rides like a dream, but there will come a time when either the money or time investment surpasses the actual worth. I will (with your guys help), keep plugging away on this, but if new problems continue to arise without even fixing the original (and only) problem I had, I'll be getting closer to packing her in, and taking the loss. A shame with all new modules, and my first keyless remote fob...........

Checked all the connections into the rfa & mall, everything checks out there. My new heater control module is installed and the heater blower still runs constantly with out keys in the ignition (takes little time to smoke a battery with the blower on high). I used the ground buses as a ground for a test light, and it'* grounded perfectly, so are each of the terminals plugged into them. Running out of idea'* here..... The only way I can keep the interior lights and the blower motor from constantly draining the battery is to pull the 60a maxi fuse (mentioned earlier in the current draw tests.....

Did you pull the carpeting out? I know it'* a pain but you really need to know if any wires, relay or modules are sitting in water or corroded from being wet previously.

Not even the slightest chance of pulling anything out of the interior. Everything is wet, rusted etc..... I am not inclined to start a major step like re/re the interior at this point. The blower motor issue just started when I began the diagnostics, the other was present since I got it. My intention now that we can't find a simple solution to the pre-existing light issue, is to get the blower motor to stop draining my battery so I can drive the car like I did for the past year. The temporary fix of pulling the fuse is not the answer, too many other things stop working. I guess I'll have to keep resorting back to everything I touched throughout these diagnostics, and at least return it to a drivable car. The car is worth maybe $1K total (likely only in parts), how much time & money would you throw into it? I've got close to $500 with a battery & new modules, I think thats about as much as she'* going get.....

***EDIT***
Just decided today to scrap/part the car out.... Anyone looking for cheap prices on Mall module, keyless remote fob, Heater control module, new Eliminator battery, 6 mo. old Goodyear Nordic winter tires on 16" black steel winter rims....... or any other usable parts on this beast before she hits the crusher...

I was helped a lot by this string and I just wanted to add my solution for any future people with this problem. I replaced the Body Multifunction Computer Connector/Module GM PART # 10427827 first and thought that this corrected the problem, but the problem was just sporadic. It did not fix it. I cleaned the ground bus on the driver side as this was the door that was malfunctioning. This did not fix it. The symptoms were... radio would not shut off by opening drivers side door (thus killing the battery) and also the chime would not chime or delay lock when lock was pressed on drivers side door. My problem ended up being a bad connection on the latch mechanism of the drivers side door. There are 2 plugs attached to the latch mechanism, one with two prongs and one above the two prong plug containing four prongs. The plug containing the 4 prongs had a manufacturing defect on one of the prongs (the prong on the far right side). I corrected this defect and viola, Everything now works fine! Thanks for everyone who added information, it certianly helped me in narrowing things down.