got some new codes...can you help? - Page 9 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-25-2008, 07:26 PM   #81
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ok....missing is not the issue...i broke down and took it too a well respected macanic and this is what it was...there was two issues...one he fixed...the connecter to the MAF was not making a good connection...so hence the code 34...but he put it on a computer and there was a code that was in the history of a Boost control cercit....he says that every thing seems fine but for some reason when he test drives it and tryed to use the boost...it dumped the boost. now i did replace the boost cilanoide (black silinder) when i hade a vacume leak from it... what would you guys sugest?
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:39 AM   #82
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Ok I met Jason tonight and the first thing we did was test the fuel pressure. The results were after three turns of the key 39-40psi, idle 40-41psi, vac line removed from FPR 44-45psi. I noticed when bliping the throttle though it would fall to sometimes 37-38psi!! I would say that the pump is failing. I scanned and found the old and current code 57 for Boost malfunction and cleared them. I then rescanned and did a live data and found that the O2 would go lean on the throttle blips. I think he is running a bit lean over half throttle and I told him to stay out of the gas and stay light on the pedal. So what are we looking for to replace the tank, pump, and sender? What brand and year pump and sender? I was refered to a 95 tank for the baffle problem is this a direct fit? Does the exhaust need to be dropped? I think this will cure what is left. Thanks all.
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Old 05-02-2008, 03:19 PM   #83
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thanks man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:40 PM   #84
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That fuel pressure doesn't seem too out of line to me.
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:45 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blownville
Does the exhaust need to be dropped?
Yes, and plan on disconnecting it at the down pipe and replacing the donut gasket there. Less wrestling this way and you would only tear up the old donut doing so. But I agree, the pump pressure seems about normal. I think mine drops to about 38 or so with a rev up and it'* relatively new.
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Old 05-02-2008, 05:06 PM   #86
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Thats weird cause mine stays at 45 and sometimes pushes up to 50psi when reved, and never drops. If that pressure is good then I am not sure what else to look at besides basic tune up stuff and coils. The boost seems fine when looking under the hood and bliping the throttle. Everything seems to be fine. One thing I did notice is that when you rev it up it nearly dies and misses on decelleration then bounces back up to a normal idle speed. Any clues as to what would cause that?
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Old 05-02-2008, 05:27 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93RedSled-SSE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blownville
Does the exhaust need to be dropped?
Yes, and plan on disconnecting it at the down pipe and replacing the donut gasket there. Less wrestling this way and you would only tear up the old donut doing so. But I agree, the pump pressure seems about normal. I think mine drops to about 38 or so with a rev up and it'* relatively new.
My bad. I found one of my old posts with what I had and I mixed it up some. Actually, what I have is FP: 46 lb IGN ON; 38 lb run; 46 lb with rev in park . So, mine goes UP with a rev. Sorry for the disinformation.
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Old 05-02-2008, 09:00 PM   #88
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Cool thanks for clearing that up for us, but Will felt the pressure was ok In my opinion the pressure should not drop when the throttle is over half on a boosted car. I feel this is something I learned on this forum. If the O2 holds on lean when in boost then it is more likely to pop a piston. It may not happen but I would rather be safe especially since Jason needs his car daily.
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Old 05-02-2008, 09:32 PM   #89
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One thing that can be checked and wont cost a dime is the voltage drop between the battery and the fuel pump itself. I found my '93 had about a 1.5 volt difference. That may not seem like much, but fuel pumps are pretty sensitive to voltage, and I actually had plans on rewiring the pump later this summer. Pressure was ok...but I know it could have been better, and WOULD have been better after the rewire.
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Old 05-02-2008, 09:59 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandrock
One thing that can be checked and wont cost a dime is the voltage drop between the battery and the fuel pump itself. I found my '93 had about a 1.5 volt difference. That may not seem like much, but fuel pumps are pretty sensitive to voltage, and I actually had plans on rewiring the pump later this summer. Pressure was ok...but I know it could have been better, and WOULD have been better after the rewire.
A side note to that, might keep an eye on the voltage gauge as you rev it. Weirdness: I had a voltage regulator (in alternator) act up and as I would repeatedly rev, rev, rev it, the voltage would drop, drop, drop. Not something you would expect or be watching for. Far out ... I know.
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