Yes, just any convenient ground.

ok i will get back to you the next time i can check...some time after 7pm CST


thanks for all your help

Make sure you have ignition off when checking resistance.
Pin C reading is different than before and now correct.
Finally, GROUND; there is a stud on the firewall passenger side, where the fiber panel is that hides the heater/ac/computer. That is a known good ground and very handy.

ok here is the rest....

resistance of pin B is still off the chart...the needle goes to 0 or less. (with car off)

voltage for PCM is 5v

hope this helps...if we cant figure out what is up with this by this weekend then i will just have to take it in but i hope not to do that...lol

get back soon

thanks for all your help

jason

ZERO resistance is GOOD for Pin B, and you now have 5V at the proper connector pin on the MAF and at the PCM. You also have 12V to the MAF sensor.

Let'* step back now and update us on the CURRENT codes and symptoms.

same.... with the harness unplugged.... code 34 and car runs fine.

plugged in... code 34 and car runs crappy (idles bad or just dies)... nothing is different

thinking about it....it seams that the MAF is the only thing i can think of that we were not able to test...that could be bad...what do you guys think?

well i am still waiting on someone to tell me whats up....but i went to the auto parts store and exchanged the MAF for a new one....sooooo. now i dont know whats up...i think it worked but there is still weird stuff going on..... first off just like be for...when i put the new MAF in the Check engine light turned off. i took it for a test drive tonight and it did not die this time but the idle was still hit or miss and when i would drive and try to accelerate and increase my boost...it would stutter...i would have my foot to the floor and i would get no acceleration...but then some times it would be fine...until it sputters again...and at stop signs or lights...my idle would drop and the car would be vary close to dieing. it would idle just under 1000 rpm and out of no ware it would correct it self for a little wile and put it at about 1200rpm...then go back down again...when it is vary close to dieing the car shakes..not wildly but enough to feel it....

can anybody figure this out?

oh and just to put up my 100th post...and to tell you all that if it helps my ABS light and my TRAC light are on too...but i dont think that makes a difference.

I've been trying to watch from the side and let Willwren follow through on his plan. But I can get you started on a suspect area.
I'm thinking you may have multiple problems. As I learned from Willwren (gotta give him the credit) crapping out under acceleration/load is often ignition related. And your poor idle may be another indicator of this. Here is a quick and easy check to see if you have one or more cylinders that are not up to par in the ignition department.

If the above check exposes a problem, items failing that would cause a discernible MISS would be in this order
1. Plug Wires
2. Coil(*)
3. Plugs (for one to actually stop firing it has to be REAL bad and is often a result of something else... not to say they don't need to be replaced regularly for good performance).

Let us know what you find on this check and we can go from there... or Willwren can ...