I feel bad for not helping more since I was the one that helped him work on it before. I was kinda waiting for more answers on here before we went forward. I also try not to do much in the winter when its freezing. Jason I owe you an apology for not responding to you when you emailed me. I had alot going on at that time. If someone could give us more to work with I will be happy to help you out some more.

(Edit) We did check the lines but I didn't check around the intake and such.

thank you so much for at least all of you to look at this...get back when you can

Let'* start over & see what codes you're getting now. If you're still getting the MAF code maybe Blownville can try one of your MAF'* in his car. Let'* give the throttle body & IAC a good cleaning & recheck for vacuum leaks.

TB is clean...i cleaned when i replaced my SC nose cone. i will get back to you on the codes...also when i hook up the MAF the Check engine light will go off.

well i checked the codes after i pluged the MAF back in and says "34"...lol witch is the MAF...so does that mean its bad? another code that comes up is 1 then 2 witch i think is the 3 blinks you get befor the code but i just wated to say it just to be safe...please get back asap. thanks for all you help

jason

Guys, did you do G100 shown in the picture? This is the PCM'* ref. ground. It is a few inches away from the main, large, black battery ground to the block. To get to it, you have to remove an outer nut, then a cable guard plate and finally the actual nut that holds the ground wire(*), which are small, like normal wiring. If you have not checked this one, please do so. It will drive you crazy with intermittent weird codes and symptoms. Snug it down good. The inner nut has a habit of backing of slightly. Picture is for a NA 93, but should be the same for yours.

The other ground spots, which probably are not computer grounds are on inside of each from fender top (under hood) and behind each front kick panel. These latter 4 are all mounted to body with sheet metal screws.
Also, yes, it is normal for the "1-2" to show, even without any other codes.
"34" is a MAF CIRCUIT error, which can include its wiring or anything causing a major restriction of air flow into the TB.

nope that did not work...do you think i got a bad MAF? i can just try to take it back and get a new one...but any other ideas would be helpful too...thanks for trying
jason

I thought I counted 3 different ones, counting your original one (?). One used replacement and one new replacement? All acted the same way? right? I guess anything is possible, but if so, you have the worst luck with these things. I will see what I can find in FSM.
Stupid question here; but BOTH of the little wires in the MAF are present and in place?

If you can scrape up a volt meter and a test light there are a few checks at the MAF, etc., and are pretty easy that should guide us to the problem (hopefully). If you can do these, we should be able to zero in on it or at least eliminate some key things.

Let us know what you find. There may be a few more steps, depending on what you find. Trying to save you wasting $ on unnecessary parts and time chasing this all around. :P

just to set it strait...the original MAF was giving me a code 34 and i was told it was bad...the i went to another members house and he tested a 2nd one...that he gave me...he said that something was acting goofy but i do remember what it was exactly...(Jessie...at any time come in on this...lol) you can read his reply in this post...... then i turned in the one he gave me to the auto parts store to avoid a core charge and receive the new, refurbished MAF.....

i will get back to you in the next test...

thanks for you help
jason