got some new codes...can you help? - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-10-2008, 02:53 PM   #41
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I feel bad for not helping more since I was the one that helped him work on it before. I was kinda waiting for more answers on here before we went forward. I also try not to do much in the winter when its freezing. Jason I owe you an apology for not responding to you when you emailed me. I had alot going on at that time. If someone could give us more to work with I will be happy to help you out some more.

(Edit) We did check the lines but I didn't check around the intake and such.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:30 PM   #42
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thank you so much for at least all of you to look at this...get back when you can
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:17 PM   #43
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Let'* start over & see what codes you're getting now. If you're still getting the MAF code maybe Blownville can try one of your MAF'* in his car. Let'* give the throttle body & IAC a good cleaning & recheck for vacuum leaks.
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:17 AM   #44
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TB is clean...i cleaned when i replaced my SC nose cone. i will get back to you on the codes...also when i hook up the MAF the Check engine light will go off.
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Old 04-16-2008, 03:36 PM   #45
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well i checked the codes after i pluged the MAF back in and says "34"...lol witch is the MAF...so does that mean its bad? another code that comes up is 1 then 2 witch i think is the 3 blinks you get befor the code but i just wated to say it just to be safe...please get back asap. thanks for all you help

jason
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Old 04-16-2008, 04:27 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blownville
Ok guys we cleaned the ground busses and took care of some corosion, and hopefully the interior electrical gremlins are gone now
Guys, did you do G100 shown in the picture? This is the PCM'* ref. ground. It is a few inches away from the main, large, black battery ground to the block. To get to it, you have to remove an outer nut, then a cable guard plate and finally the actual nut that holds the ground wire(*), which are small, like normal wiring. If you have not checked this one, please do so. It will drive you crazy with intermittent weird codes and symptoms. Snug it down good. The inner nut has a habit of backing of slightly. Picture is for a NA 93, but should be the same for yours.
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The other ground spots, which probably are not computer grounds are on inside of each from fender top (under hood) and behind each front kick panel. These latter 4 are all mounted to body with sheet metal screws.
Also, yes, it is normal for the "1-2" to show, even without any other codes.
"34" is a MAF CIRCUIT error, which can include its wiring or anything causing a major restriction of air flow into the TB.
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:01 PM   #47
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nope that did not work...do you think i got a bad MAF? i can just try to take it back and get a new one...but any other ideas would be helpful too...thanks for trying
jason
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:19 PM   #48
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I thought I counted 3 different ones, counting your original one (?). One used replacement and one new replacement? All acted the same way? right? I guess anything is possible, but if so, you have the worst luck with these things. I will see what I can find in FSM.
Stupid question here; but BOTH of the little wires in the MAF are present and in place?
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Old 04-16-2008, 10:50 PM   #49
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If you can scrape up a volt meter and a test light there are a few checks at the MAF, etc., and are pretty easy that should guide us to the problem (hopefully). If you can do these, we should be able to zero in on it or at least eliminate some key things.
  • 1. With the codes cleared, start the motor & idle for a minute. Does it code 34 again?
    2. If it codes, turn if OFF. Unplug the MAF. Key ON, motor stopped... Measure volts at pin A of MAF harness (yellow wire) to ground. Is it between 4 to 6 volts? If not, stop, we will go another route.
    3. If it IS between 4 & 6 volts, w/key still on and motor stopped, connect the test light between the other 2 pins (not to ground), pins B & C. Should be pink/black and black/white. Is light on?
Let us know what you find. There may be a few more steps, depending on what you find. Trying to save you wasting $ on unnecessary parts and time chasing this all around. :P
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Old 04-16-2008, 11:09 PM   #50
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just to set it strait...the original MAF was giving me a code 34 and i was told it was bad...the i went to another members house and he tested a 2nd one...that he gave me...he said that something was acting goofy but i do remember what it was exactly...(Jessie...at any time come in on this...lol) you can read his reply in this post...... then i turned in the one he gave me to the auto parts store to avoid a core charge and receive the new, refurbished MAF.....

i will get back to you in the next test...

thanks for you help
jason
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