got some new codes...can you help? - Page 6 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-17-2008, 12:04 AM   #51
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So you put in the refurbed one and get the same code? I know we had a problem where we got it to not throw a code when we disconnected the o2 and had the maf plugged in or vise versa. It was something weird like that. It seemed as if the wiring or something was weird. We would have to do all the tests over again to be sure. I have a volt meter and may have some free time coming up. It will be easier to do this stuff now that we won't be freezing our a**es off.
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:16 AM   #52
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Yeh, I'm down here worrying about my AC.
I'm not sure if he is still getting the code or not. If not, then these measurements won't do any good. Other than clearing all codes and then the first step to see if it throws again, the rest shouldn't take but a few minutes. I'm hoping it is not one of those intermittent things.
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:52 AM   #53
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Is there any chance of it possibly being the ECM if it keeps acting weird? I remember it seeming like it was the harness that is all conected to the o2, MAF, and something else I just dont remember what. If you pluged one and not the other it was fine as far as codes, then they were both pluged in and it threw a code, then disconnect the other one and it was fine also something like that. they just wont work together. I know there is more testing that needs to be done but I just wanted to see what anyones thoughts are on this.

(Edit) Not sure if it still is but it ran far better with the MAF unplugged than plugged in, but we also messed with the o2 trying two different Bosch ones. I know he needs to get a Denso one but that is all we had to work with.
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Old 04-19-2008, 11:44 AM   #54
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ok i got a volt meter and this is what i found....

Q 1......got code 34

Q 2......was not between 4-6 volts...it was between 2-4 volts....at 3.

hope to hear from you soon

jason
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:47 PM   #55
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Okay, now we have got something. And, you had the wires unplugged from the MAF when you got the 3v reading (right?)
That measurement is suppose to be close to 5v from the PCM/ECM (computer). According to the FSM it says the PCM is faulty.. or that Yellow wire (492) is open or shorted. But a problem with the wire, would give you 0v, not 3v. So as long as your G100 ground is good (checked earlier), it points to the computer being at fault.

Before dropping $ on a PCM rplcmt.. I would check one more thing.
a. drop the PCM down to the floorboard
b. reconnect all 3 plugs
c. Start engine
e. Wiggle/jiggle the plug that is normally closest to firewall ... esp. the yellow wire going to D14, which is the MAF wire.
f. Does the engine idle get better or worse or stay the same?
If it does NOT change, then that reinforces the PCM being at fault
If it changes, then that connection is faulty.

BTW, I'm out trying to get a pin out of a connector and am sort of away from the PC. I just came in to see if I could find any info on where the tang is for the Air Mix Actuator connector pins. I have one I need to get out to repair and have no experience with these dinky things.
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Old 04-19-2008, 05:40 PM   #56
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Well I am glad to hear that we may have the answer. Jason the PCM/ECM is tucked up behind the glove box. I think there is a small metric #5-4 bolt that holds it up. This will be an easy fix but a bit costly. I think you can get one from the yard for around $50. Let us know what happens.
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Old 04-19-2008, 06:18 PM   #57
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well dropped the PCM and did what you said...and nothing changed...it does the same thing that is did be for i dropped the PCM.....( idle for a wile, then sputter, then die)

so i take it this means a new PCM is needed? if so how much? do i need to buy new or can i get a rebuilt? let me know...thanks
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:32 PM   #58
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BAD NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! well i went and got a new ECM for $100 and there still is no difference....
it still idles crappy. it still dies, and i still get a code 34....do you think now the MAF is bad or wrong?

what am i to do...i have less then 2 weeks left to try and pass my emissions and i think that i will fail if i dont get this working....

get back asap

thanks
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:46 PM   #59
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just to add...i just now disconnected the battery and reconnected it just to see if that would help any and it just might have...but still get back to me
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Old 04-20-2008, 01:07 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple X
BAD NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! well i went and got a new ECM for $100 and there still is no difference....
it still idles crappy. it still dies, and i still get a code 34....do you think now the MAF is bad or wrong?

what am i to do...i have less then 2 weeks left to try and pass my emissions and i think that i will fail if i dont get this working....

get back asap

thanks
I've been out working on my buggy all day. Sorry to take a while and that the PCM didn't do it. Your MAF should have been out of the ckt., when you got that 3v reading; and if your PCM ground is good I can't figure out why the PCM didn't fix it. Is there any way to try YOUR MAF in another car; maybe Blownville? I hate to see you spend more on parts. Checking with some other gearheads to see if they have ideas.
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