we gonna get it towed to a repair shop tomorrow they said 47.50 for labor on changing the cam sensor and seeing as will only run for short time figured better to be towed (ty AAA ). So will hopefully know wednesday what is wrong for sure.

Well we took to a Mechanic and he replaced the cam sensor but doesnt do internal work so have no idea if he looked to see if inside was ok but car is still doing the same thing

If his directive was to change the cam sensor, that'* probably all he did.

If you send a car to a shop to have a part replaced the mechanic has very good reason to believe you diagnosed the problem yourself so he isn't going to spend any time diagnosing it.


If you're not going to diagnose the parts in the manner described above I suggest you turn the car over to a mechanic. He'll diagnose it himself.

She is in contact with someone else we know that is very very good and he is going to look into it and see what he can do, good thing is he is almost free because an ex-husband lol,
any suggestions if it could be anything else besides the magnet seems like wouldn't run at all it fell apart, someone had mentioned a wiring problem?

The car will usually run without a cam sensor (later 3800s left it off). Not starting at all is usually the crank sensor or ICM.

Unless there is a wiring problem, the cam sensor rarely fails but I see a lot of magnets falling off the cam sprocket. That is why I developed the quick/cheap way to fix. Did one of mine five years ago and is working fine.

I am also seeing a lot of indicators that the long 14 connector on the ECM that is held on by one screw in the center is less than optimal. It was probably fine for the warrenty period but we are approaching twenty years out.

Have had ICMs that work fine on the tester fail on a car. Have had some work on one car and fail on another. Generally cleaning all of the contacts and removing any debris helps. Overtightening of the single screw can distort the connector and cause the problems.

we contacted a mechanic now and not same as mentioned above and he said is the crank sensor and I am wondering why there wouldn't be a code showing for the the crank sensor instead of the cam sensor, we need some ideas as to where to go from here plzzz.

Crank sensor failure (usually broken magnets) rarely sets a code, the car just does not start and has to run to set codes. If the magnets are broken, check the balancer for a bent ring.

then wouldn't be the crank sensor because the car does start and run great for about 15-20 mins then it is just like ya shut it off no spit and sputter just dead for about 1/2 hr then starts all over again.

What'* new here?!?
Ever get it figured out?!?