Zilla's rebuild (exhaust mod revealed, gauges going in.....) - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-07-2007, 04:19 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superchargedtrofeo
you know you are just dumping 1200 degree exhaust back into your intake right?
ya the exhaust is not 1200*
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Old 03-07-2007, 04:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
Quote:
Originally Posted by superchargedtrofeo
you know you are just dumping 1200 degree exhaust back into your intake right?
ya the exhaust is not 1200*
Depends on how the engine is running. I was working with a 3800 on a dyno, and when it was pulling some serious power at low RPM'*, the exhaust was in the 1100-1200 degree range. Of course, that was really crapping on the motor, as the exhaust was several hundred degrees cooler under normal load conditions, not to mention the drop in temp observed by having the exhaust move the small distance to the EGR system and through the valve...

So yeah, not 1200 degrees. But in theory it'* possible.

As for running EGR vs not running EGR, I suggest that people read up on the subject before hand... the wikipedia article on it does a really good job of summing up what the system does:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EGR
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Old 03-07-2007, 04:37 PM   #43
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EGR doesn't flow at WOT.
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Old 03-07-2007, 04:42 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Wikoff
EGR doesn't flow at WOT.
hes right.....thats what the EGR valve is for.
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:57 PM   #45
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Obviously, superchargedtrofeo doesn't understand that EGR'* actually REDUCE combustion temps.

Quote:
EGR is considered a `metered intake leak' and was developed to reduce the combustion temperatures to below 2,500 degrees, the threshold where NOx is created. Not unlike putting a brick in your lavatory to lower the volume of water used, the EGR valve meters a readily available inert gas (actually exhaust gas which contains a lot of very inert Carbon Dioxide) into the combustion chamber to effectively reduce the volume. Smaller effective displacement means less fire, and less heat and thus lower temperatures, thereby controlling NOx emissions.
Quote:
In a typical automotive SI engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR (thus comprising 5 to 15 percent of the mixture entering the cylinders). The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in an SI engine can cause misfires and partial burns. Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. Contrary to popular belief, a properly operating EGR actually increases the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:

Reduced throttling losses. The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.
Reduced heat rejection. Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.
Reduced chemical dissociation. The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC, rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is relatively minor compared to the first two.
But now we're going off-topic.
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:26 PM   #46
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I apologize, I did read this thread twice, but it'* unclear to me what you're doing? I saw "adding 50hp" and something about a new SC. What kind of SC? Eaton? Custom?

What'* up?
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:31 PM   #47
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ZillaMotorsports hybrid Gen 3.5 Eaton twin-screw roots supercharger.

Porting and polishing the heads. ZillaMotorsports Stage 1 heads.
Re-porting (more aggressively) my exhaust manifolds.
Re-porting (somewhat more aggressively) another LIM.
INTENSE FWI
Stronger valve springs to fix the valve float at the top of 2nd gear that I've had for 3 years.
Custom 1-piece Chromoly pushrods (cuz mine are old)
CompCams lifters
Heavy duty Cloyes timing set (gears and chain)
Water pump
2 new front hubs

AND some other stuff. Widely rumored to be rockers, a cam, nitrous, turbo, dual-boost or dilithium crystals. Not to mention my brand-spanking new drag slicks, mounted and balanced ready to go.
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:37 PM   #48
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Oh, nice! Are those CompCams lifters beefier, then? I figured you'd go that route considering you're beefing up the springs, too. Also the pushrods.

Very nice, indeed. Can't wait to see/hear 'er when you're done.

BTW: Any pics of that SC? In another forum, perhaps? (Sorry, I 've been AWOL) :P
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:40 PM   #49
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Haven't built that SC yet. The core and all the parts are here though.

I'll put my ZM stage 1 Gen3 SC aside for a spare. It only has 5k on it.
The only SC'* I've put out this off-season are SilverBullet'* GenV M90, and M90'* for Harofreak and Chadow427. A couple LIM'* and a few TB'* too. I'm just now starting my own work.
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:40 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
ZillaMotorsports hybrid Gen 3.5 Eaton twin-screw roots supercharger.

Porting and polishing the heads. ZillaMotorsports Stage 1 heads.
Re-porting (more aggressively) my exhaust manifolds.
Re-porting (somewhat more aggressively) another LIM.
INTENSE FWI
Stronger valve springs to fix the valve float at the top of 2nd gear that I've had for 3 years.
Custom 1-piece Chromoly pushrods (cuz mine are old)
CompCams lifters
Heavy duty Cloyes timing set (gears and chain)
Water pump
2 new front hubs

AND some other stuff. Widely rumored to be rockers, a cam, nitrous, turbo, dual-boost or dilithium crystals. Not to mention my brand-spanking new drag slicks, mounted and balanced ready to go.
you posting the informaton above made me fall off my chair.




Side note.. My money is on the Dilithium crystals.
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