Fastest Series 1 SSEi???? - Page 9 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 08-12-2004, 01:40 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
I wanted to make a few comments here... Might be meaningless to everyone...

First the redline on a series I L67 1992-1995 is 5600 Rpms... I don't care what the tach shows anyone( or for that matter if the tach shows a 6000 Redline, some of the 1995 bonnevilles that were supercharged had a 6000 RPM redline displayed on the tach... I assure you it was infact a 5600 Redline)... I have seen tachs that were easily 100-300 RPM'* off... After 5600 Rpms the PCM would go into fuel cut off... So if you manage to get there you'll know...

You really should be able to shift at 5400-5500 Rpms... But at this point you are well past the HP peak...

Run this engine like this all day long and sooner or later this valvetrain will not be forgiving.... And I'll bet by the time you get to 5600 there is plenty of valve float.. Hell my 91 had a 5200 Redline, I dogged the car out for the longest.... In the end I had to tear the heads off and have them done... I had weakened the valvesprings... This car had no fuel cut off... I could go right through the red at will... I'm supprised that this car is still with me..

Now when you get to the Series II engines you are in a new world... These do have a 6000 Rpm Redline, and the tranny will shift at 5900 Rpms in first and second.... And fuel cut off comes in just after 6000 Rpms... Even this engine has valve float in the higher revs... But the HP peak of a series II is 5200 Rpms...

I'm wondering why you would want an SC'd 3800 thats producing its HP at 4600-4800 Rpms to shift at 6000 Rpms...

Oh well...
Get some heavier springs to fight valve float, to completely fix it you'll need more then just that, for HP increases, and shifts either a cam, ported heads, opened exhaust etc all will change it. A custom Chip will also help free up upper end stuff, as will a DIS4.


Before I even think about the 6000 RPM chip I will definatley have a cam and heavier valvesprings/retainers in. Before I do that I will definatley have the car dynoed. Before that I will have to have a good tranny LOL......First things first here people.

I may end up getting the heads ported and polished, but ive heard (at least on the SER2 cars) that this can decrease boost. But I still think a freer flowing head with upgraded springs and a regrind cam (desinged to make power higher in the RPM range) along with the 6000 rpm ECU, should net pretty solid gains. Before I get down and dirty with all of this Ill have to get a different daily driver though, for I cant handle havin the Bonne down for that long......and the Loom just blows!!!
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Old 08-12-2004, 02:18 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonEvilSSEi

Before I even think about the 6000 RPM chip I will definatley have a cam and heavier valvesprings/retainers in. Before I do that I will definatley have the car dynoed. Before that I will have to have a good tranny LOL......First things first here people.

I may end up getting the heads ported and polished, but ive heard (at least on the SER2 cars) that this can decrease boost. But I still think a freer flowing head with upgraded springs and a regrind cam (desinged to make power higher in the RPM range) along with the 6000 rpm ECU, should net pretty solid gains. Before I get down and dirty with all of this Ill have to get a different daily driver though, for I cant handle havin the Bonne down for that long......and the Loom just blows!!!
Let'* dissect this a bit at at time. First of all, having the heads ported and polished (along with the lower intake and exhaust manifolds, I hope), you will lose INDICATED boost. Flow will be better and free-er (is that a word?), but the pressure won't build up because it'* flowing through the engine more efficiently.....this isn't a bad thing. The boost gauge isn't your benchmark on an L67.

Secondly, you don't want your redline to be raised to Series 2 levels. That'* not ALWAYS a good thing. Where do you want your power? On the 1/8 or the 1/4? Launches, or the second half of the run? Do you want to run more efficiently, or faster, or a combination of both? The Series 1 excels in 'down low' power. Don't go after the higher-rev power unless you're sure that'* what you want.
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Old 08-12-2004, 02:26 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonEvilSSEi

Before I even think about the 6000 RPM chip I will definatley have a cam and heavier valvesprings/retainers in. Before I do that I will definatley have the car dynoed. Before that I will have to have a good tranny LOL......First things first here people.

I may end up getting the heads ported and polished, but ive heard (at least on the SER2 cars) that this can decrease boost. But I still think a freer flowing head with upgraded springs and a regrind cam (desinged to make power higher in the RPM range) along with the 6000 rpm ECU, should net pretty solid gains. Before I get down and dirty with all of this Ill have to get a different daily driver though, for I cant handle havin the Bonne down for that long......and the Loom just blows!!!
Let'* dissect this a bit at at time. First of all, having the heads ported and polished (along with the lower intake and exhaust manifolds, I hope), you will lose INDICATED boost. Flow will be better and free-er (is that a word?), but the pressure won't build up because it'* flowing through the engine more efficiently.....this isn't a bad thing. The boost gauge isn't your benchmark on an L67.

Secondly, you don't want your redline to be raised to Series 2 levels. That'* not ALWAYS a good thing. Where do you want your power? On the 1/8 or the 1/4? Launches, or the second half of the run? Do you want to run more efficiently, or faster, or a combination of both? The Series 1 excels in 'down low' power. Don't go after the higher-rev power unless you're sure that'* what you want.
Screw it maby ill just do a SER2 swap or sell the Bonne all together....im getting tired of getting knocked for wanting to do something different with my car.

Maby I could just be like most people my age and go out and get a Civic!!!


But no I want to do something different as in not like everyone elses car......Maby I want my SER1 L67 to be different than everyone (or most) elses. I do thank you for your support and keeping me on the straight, but now it sounds as if you are just trying to keep be from what I want to do. I want a fast car that will rev freely and screeeem. Yes I 1/4 mile race the car from time to time, yes I drive it daily, yes I like low down torque, but if I can find someone who can custom grind a cam with these things in mind then thats what I WANT TO DO!!!!!
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Old 08-12-2004, 02:32 AM   #84
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Hold on a sec......you're misunderstanding us. WE want what'* best for you and your car, too. That'* why we're here. We're not slamming your ideas. We're sharing what we know. The Series 1 actually has some advantages over the Series 2, and we'd like to HELP you take advantage of that.

Everything I do or say here benefits someone, or I wouldn't be here. I'm doing the best I can to help you do it right. Every bit of knowledge I have is yours. I gain nothing but satisfaction when your car hits low 14'* pushing triple digits at the trap.

My crusade is to solve some of the problems for the 94/95 SSEi'*. They've been left out for too long. Will it make my car seem slower? You bet, but at least I helped make someone ELSE faster.

Give us a chance to participate in your venture. We'll get your car places you never thought possible.
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Old 08-12-2004, 02:53 AM   #85
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They loose boost with headers and P&P stuff , because more air is getting thru the engine (more power). That'* a good thing

Personally higher RPM power is a good thing, it'* the weak point, so i'd love to see you do it.
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:18 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
They loose boost with headers and P&P stuff , because more air is getting thru the engine (more power). That'* a good thing

Personally higher RPM power is a good thing, it'* the weak point, so i'd love to see you do it.
And then that allows you to possibly go with a smaller pulley yet, right?
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:30 AM   #87
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No, the goal here actually isn't boost at all. Boost is a byproduct. You want to get as much air in the cylinder and out of the engine asap. The higher the PSI, the more air, but if you have two identical engines, but one with headers, and one with some bad stock manifolds, the one with headers will see oh, maybe 2 PSI less. There is more air moving thru the engine as a whole, and out of the cylidnder on every stroke, so air doesn't buildup in the lower manifold/heads like it does on the engine with exh. mani'*.

Smaller pulleys make much more heat, and KR comes on quick if you go to small.
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:31 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueWildMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
They loose boost with headers and P&P stuff , because more air is getting thru the engine (more power). That'* a good thing

Personally higher RPM power is a good thing, it'* the weak point, so i'd love to see you do it.
And then that allows you to possibly go with a smaller pulley yet, right?
Thats the way it normally works. Boost does not indicate horsepower. The ability of your engine to flow air is what makes horsepower. With an engine much more free flowing your boost will drop because the manifold absolute pressure within the intake is less. You are making less boost but your making the same if not more horsepower. Once you get to this point you can "pulley down" to get more boost which will help re-add the feeling of torqueyness (word?).
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Old 08-12-2004, 10:37 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
Smaller pulleys make much more heat, and KR comes on quick if you go to small.
Very true, but only if your still restricting the boost (boost stacking). If you have a modded engine that breathes a lot better (cam, rockers, headers, exhaust, whatever) and are still running a stock 3.8 pulleyl the car may feel like it has lost torque. The engine is moving enough air that going to a smaller pulley will add some Boost back yet still be able to remain cool because the air is moving in and out much faster. As long as you can move the air in and out you can go to whatever size pulley you want.
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Old 08-14-2004, 08:18 AM   #90
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So what does a Bonneville weigh anyway? I ask because I'm trying to compare the weight to our Commodores which I've got a feeling are a social equivalent.

As for mine, we'll I'm not sure you guys will want to come and play because I'm not running a supercharger, turbo, or nitrous. :P

My VN Commodore (1989 model so it'* the older engine, not the series-I) runs 14.05 at 96mph naturally aspirated. It'* an auto and the diff ratio is 3.45:1 and that time was run on full street tyres and with full interior and exhaust. There are actually two quicker guys than me, one runs a 4.3-litre series-I stroker (13.6 at 102mph), the other one runs 3.9 gears and a manual (13.8 at 99mph).

What kind of times are you guys getting naturally aspirated?
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