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Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning Talk about modifications, or anything else associated with performance enhancements. Have a new idea for performance/reliability? Post it here. No idea is stupid! (please use Detailing and Appearance for cosmetic ideas)

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Old 08-10-2004, 07:28 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nytro67
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEi95
Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
You may SEE more indicated boost pressure on the gauge, but it'* causing more KR.
I have the 2.5. This was a while ago, but I think I remeber scanning my car while driving and seeing no KR at all under WOT or durring shifting. I'll need to check that out this weekend.
Ditto & Ditto
I can buy SSEi95 not having KR on a typical day, but I'm not sure I'd buy Nytro being the same. With the smaller pulley and more restrictive exhaust, you should have more KR than I do. It comes down to specifics. What octane fuel were you running? What were the outside temps?

You WILL get KR with a 2.4" pulley on a 95 SSEi. Just like the Series 2 guys when they step down that ratio also. In order to diagnose and determine KR, you really need someone else driving or on the scantool. It'* easy to miss unless your tool can record like mine.

What types of tools did you both use?
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Old 08-10-2004, 08:21 PM   #72
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Mine is an Ease diag PC based recording tool. It has an external component that hooks a laptop to your car. It does real time repoting and recording.

Thae day I did it it was 60^ maybe? Car was running real good that day. I was on my way to Mankato for out meet.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:38 PM   #73
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i got the same thing fir heavy coin like 320$. EASE Scan tool. it does way mroe than i need prolly. it does realtime, you can record a session thats as long as the space on your hard drive.
I never noticed any knock but it is very hard to manipulate when your driving without someone else. at the track its a PITA if you keep turning your car off and it loses serial connection.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:41 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nytro67
i got the same thing fir heavy coin like 320$. EASE Scan tool. it does way mroe than i need prolly. it does realtime, you can record a session thats as long as the space on your hard drive.
I never noticed any knock but it is very hard to manipulate when your driving without someone else. at the track its a PITA if you keep turning your car off and it loses serial connection.
Yup, that'* the one!
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:58 PM   #75
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I beg to differ, the better your incoming air, the better your chances @ KR. Nytro may be just on the verge of KR at that pulley.
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:03 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
I beg to differ, the better your incoming air, the better your chances @ KR. Nytro may be just on the verge of KR at that pulley.
Jason, last time I checked, KR was temperature effected. It will be worse on hot days.

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The combination of stock airbox and open exhaust is a good combination to battle KR.
This was intended to point out that a stock airbox IS effective at providing cool air from the outside, helping to battle KR. Does it flow better? No, but it can provide cool air without being affected by engine bay heat.
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:30 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonEvilSSEi
actually looking at it today while at WOT the shift point looked more like 5100 RPM from 1st to 2nd.....BTW I dont suggest doing this if there are ANY other cars on the road LOL.
Maby next time ill ask my passenger to look carefully while im as my shift points. Also I was in town so I didnt get to go from 2nd to 3rd at WOT....cause thats a liitle too fast with a 45 mph limit
From an earlier quote I wrote about my shift points, and to be honest with you I have no idea if this is where it was supposed to be shifting this whole time......the tranny blew just days after this post was done and when the new 4T60E is in I will repost shift points hopefully more acurate.

Prolly still the same though cause the shift points controlled by the PCM, but just in case the trans was overreviing cause of its terminal blowupidis I dont want people to think this is what they are supposed to shift at.
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Old 08-11-2004, 10:51 AM   #78
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Send a PM to SSEi95 and ask him what his shift points are. He has them logged on his laptop.

I hope this wasn't an effect of having that chip setup without a dyno run. You may want him to send you his logfiles for your chip-maker. Maybe Nytro67 as well. PM them both and refer them here!
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Old 08-11-2004, 11:00 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I hope this wasn't an effect of having that chip setup without a dyno run.
I was thinking the same thing...
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Old 08-12-2004, 12:52 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
I wanted to make a few comments here... Might be meaningless to everyone...

First the redline on a series I L67 1992-1995 is 5600 Rpms... I don't care what the tach shows anyone( or for that matter if the tach shows a 6000 Redline, some of the 1995 bonnevilles that were supercharged had a 6000 RPM redline displayed on the tach... I assure you it was infact a 5600 Redline)... I have seen tachs that were easily 100-300 RPM'* off... After 5600 Rpms the PCM would go into fuel cut off... So if you manage to get there you'll know...

You really should be able to shift at 5400-5500 Rpms... But at this point you are well past the HP peak...

Run this engine like this all day long and sooner or later this valvetrain will not be forgiving.... And I'll bet by the time you get to 5600 there is plenty of valve float.. Hell my 91 had a 5200 Redline, I dogged the car out for the longest.... In the end I had to tear the heads off and have them done... I had weakened the valvesprings... This car had no fuel cut off... I could go right through the red at will... I'm supprised that this car is still with me..

Now when you get to the Series II engines you are in a new world... These do have a 6000 Rpm Redline, and the tranny will shift at 5900 Rpms in first and second.... And fuel cut off comes in just after 6000 Rpms... Even this engine has valve float in the higher revs... But the HP peak of a series II is 5200 Rpms...

I'm wondering why you would want an SC'd 3800 thats producing its HP at 4600-4800 Rpms to shift at 6000 Rpms...

Oh well...
Get some heavier springs to fight valve float, to completely fix it you'll need more then just that, for HP increases, and shifts either a cam, ported heads, opened exhaust etc all will change it. A custom Chip will also help free up upper end stuff, as will a DIS4.
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