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Old 07-09-2014, 07:53 AM   #531
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Yeah I looked on interstates web site and the list price for a megatron is only a few bucks more than what I paid for the Orlilleys battery
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:03 AM   #532
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The Megatron Plus is is an 800CCA I believe with a 30 month warranty.....good battery!
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:22 AM   #533
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yep, thats what i got. its rated 800/1000. and site says 128 but like i said it was a bit cheaper.;
30 Month Free Replacement
Six Year Performance Warranty
800 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)
Part # MTP-34

they went back to top post on the 07 i have now, have not been a fan. they corrode faster even with the plastic covers they put on. all that does is get the corrosion out of peoples eyesight so they dont notice it till you cant start the car.
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:32 AM   #534
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Justin Glad u got the Plus 800cca!
With a lead acid battery ever tried using a piece of felt pad under terminals?
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I have found it works well to keep acid totally at bay..!!

Originally the Buick had the side post terminals..here is what the + one looked like..
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So I did away with all of that non sense & went to top posts & AGM. This is right now.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:35 AM   #535
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i clean the posts and spray it with conformal coating, which is an aerosol we use at work to weather proof circuit boards. no more issues after that. looks like the seal got buggered up on that one. i have had very few issues with top posts till the car gets old

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Old 07-10-2014, 07:13 PM   #536
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Everyone will have there own preference to battery brands and other parts but being pretty much a OEM guy I have stuck with AC-Delco batteries. One thing I have learned is that charging voltage is very relevant to battery life. The AC-Delco in my old chevelle is now 9 years old and still going strong even after 2 deep discharges (lights left on and glove compartment light). The reason I think that charging voltage has kept this battery going is because the aftermarket a/c I installed years ago in chelly had overdrive pulleys in the a/c kit for cooling which sped up the fan, water pump, and the alternator. Yes, that robs power, but so does the a/c but I'm old and live in the humid south now. I have no idea what the voltage runs during normal driving as the car has an ammeter not a voltmeter (younger guys are saying to themselves WTF is an ammeter, lol) The tach does run about 10% fast after the pulley swap tho so I would guess that I'm consistently running well above 14V with no bulb burnout problems.

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Old 07-10-2014, 09:19 PM   #537
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your tach signal come from the alt?
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:58 PM   #538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwfirebird View Post
your tach signal come from the alt?
off one of the posts on the coil, not the high voltage lead to the center of the distributor. I still have the original breaker points distributor in the chevelle. I saw a 65 vette at a car show that had a mechanical driven tach that ran off the bottom of the distributor, really only accurate way to go, course those C3'* were way ahead of their time. The battery was still in the engine compartment, but located on the passenger side frame rail to lower cg and weight distribution and they had irs and 4 wheel disc brakes 2 decades before they became industry norms.

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Old 07-11-2014, 07:54 AM   #539
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not sure how that would change the tach reading. i guess if its consistent doesnt really matter

alot of diesels have an output off the alt, before they started putting sensors on the crank pulley for everything.

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Old 07-16-2014, 06:47 PM   #540
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Spent the day replacing the AC pump, orifice tube, and filter dryer on my buddy'* 99 ram. The AC pulley broke and I told him we just needed to replace the clutch and pulley because the pump wasn't leaking. No one offered just the pulley so he had to buy a whole pump assy, in turn for the warranty he also needed to replace the filter dryer and orifice tube. Cost him 500 bucks in parts. I tried to convince him the we just needed to get a pump from the junk yard and just change the pulley but he wanted new parts.
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