Can do boss

this is a perfect case of "give the engine what it likes, not what you think it needs"...

i'd say you're lucky to have gotten away with just a HG.

also: 3100 UIM is sleeper manifold

Should I paint 'ZZZ'* on it?

What he said. My L67 runs between 11.5 and 12.0.

not quite an apples to apples comparison, since you're dealing with the heat of boost without an intercooler(and some of the extra fuel evaporates, cooling down the charge) and iron heads vs aluminum (aluminum transfer heat faster and tend to benefit from a slightly richer AFR compared to an equivalent iron head due to the evap benefit mentioned above).

but yes, 11.5-12 is a good area to start at least, if not end. i've seen some motors make their peak torque(and therefore HP) in that range, even though they should have made more power running a bit leaner.

it'* not an exact science.

With tools you have?

Grab that plastic putty knife and an empty 5 gallon bucket or milk crate. You're gonna be at this a while.

Honstly..if another engine is the price of faskets..go drop one in. We'll have an engine swap race between you and Dan.

Yes an engine costs the same Jon, but it also requires you to go to the yard, find an engine, pull it, take it back, and swap it in. A lot more work, time, and cost (travel back and forth) than just fixing the head gaskets the proper way the first time. What'* to guarantee the new engine won't blow on you just the same. How many engines do you plan on swapping this year? Better yet, if the blown gasket did damage your radiator, how many TGP radiators will you be able to find if the new engine blows another radiator?

Dan'* thread is starting to grow....

Have some pictures to look at everyone!

A clean cylinder head is a happy cylinder head.

Very nice, and aluminum too. Looks like your about as big as you can go with valves.

So now this is a thread competition? If only photobucket would finish what ever it is they are doing. Been messed up sense yesterday.

Just use http://imgur.com