I wish there was a kit that could eliminate having to get way underneath the car to disconnect the downstream O2 sensor. That would make pulling the harness off the engine so much easier.

We are talking about changing that, but that will be a little later on.

Been sick for the last couple of weeks, to the point that I haven't even been online.

I'd need that part in hand to figure out what it is.. doesn't look like anything that I can tell was ever in the motor. Unless...it'* the edge of the oil pick up tube where the screen is..that' the only thing I can think of that'* large enough and rounded. I doubt it though.

Looks great Dan. On the trans, which input shaft? Expect that 7/8" chain will be need to be replaced in about a year. They stretch, which is better than the 15/16" which snap. Tell him to watch for a 1" GMR chain and gearset. That'* the winning combo. Being unsure of the mileage on it, you'll likely be doing the clutches soon. Overall...expect that trans to come out again.

Turbo builds with L36 uppers are stout and can hold good amounts of boost w/o issues. Sure, everyone likes the L26 upper better (I have one if you need one for him) but ...L36 uppser work just fine.

Didn't see if you plugged the LIM coolant ports, hopefully.
I assume a mini afc is going in to control the maf?

Do you typically take the engine out over the fender or go at them from the front? I've never necessarly put any thought into it and always gone in from the front. I also like to hook up all four corners of the lever as the biggest need I find is tilting passenger to driverside. (usually to line up the trans or install the trans mount.

One last trick..on W bodies newer than 98, take the MC bolts out and the hoses from the MC to the ABS unit allow you to move it further out of the way. I've found this helps a lot in getting the trans past it.

My junk pile resembles yours..except most things are still together. I need to gut 4 transmissions and one or two engines before heading to the salvage yard.

Wait til you drive it... you will want to change yours to a turbo.

Suggestions for him that'll help give him a pile of power if they aren't already one. An XP cam, or a turbo cam. Both do amazing things for turbo'd cars. If not..1.9 rockers. An HV3 works wonders on turbo cars as well.

And I'm hoping you don't hate me for this, because I think we've discussed it in the past.

Which timing chain set was that?
Was the crank gear chamfered for the US crank?
Did you measure the chain links from the block to ensure it was sitting correctly?

The only double roller timing chain sets that were ever manufactured are/were made for the Aussie motor, which has a different nose to the crank where the gear sits. This means when installed the crank gear will sit foward and cause deflection in the chain. This deflection is known to grind the oil pump cover and cause the chain to break. The chain breaks based on the deflection because it'* not strong in that manner. The oil pump cover wear looks odd because it is deeper at the bottom of the crank than where the chain first hits the cover. This is the deflection




ZZP'* site says you should put on a milled oil pump cover. There'* no need if you fix the actual problem that will snap the chain though. Once the crank gear chamfer is corrected...the chain clears the pump cover w/o any worries.

Lemme toss another thought in here. I'm assuming you'll be plumbing an oil line for the turbo, from the filter adapter to the turbo and then running the return back into the pan where the oil level sensor would have gone?

I used 2 timing cover gaskets, so that should be good. Then turned by hand and felt nothing.

He has a XP cam in it.

Yes, running oil lines as you mentioned.

I've done several pulls from the front, and to be honest, it was way easier from the side. I think I may do it that way from now on. Only draw back is you really need to lift it high to clear the fender. But I really never had an engine go in so easy. My son was standing there, asked if I need help. I said hang on, thump, it was in. Guess not.

Dan.. double gaskets doesn't fix the timing chain issue. It'* a bubble gum fix to the chain rubbing the cover only. The actual problem that should be addressed is the that the chain is being pulled sideways because the crank and timing gears are not aligned. There is a lengthy discussion about this on CGP and the problem is deflection, not rubbing.

Say this is the cam gear to crank gear alignment w/o chamfering the crank gear.
|0| <Cam gear with chain
| | < chain by itself between gears
| | < chain by itself between gears
| | < chain by itself between gears
|0| < Crank gear

Because the crank gear isn't seated fully back, the chain can/will break based on the deflection, not whether it rubs the cover. This is something that pisses me off about ZZP'* site. Zoomer (owner) was directly involved in that discussion I mentioned and stated that he talked to Rollmaster (main chain/gear supplier) about making a US crank set instead of only the Aussie set. They never pushed further ahead, but they don't say a thing about it on their site and they don't chamfer them before selling.

I noted this as I was in the process of installing one when I read that discussion. Measured and took the chain back off, had the chamfer from the new crank gear matched up to the chamfer on the stock gear. After that there was almost no differnce in the chain from block at both gears.

With the kind of power he will be putting down and the fact that you have some time, I'd highly recommend reading that discussion and having the gear machined.

On the pulling/dropping in. Some seem to go in easier than others. I had a motor swap this weekend in an Intrigue. Literally fell right into place. I didn't touch it at all to line it up with the holes.

Didn't have a lot of time today. But did do a little bit.

Trying to figure out where to mount the FMHE, and how. I think this may work.


The brackets are just clamped in place right now for fit.


May have to go a little higher, but that'* easy.

Well, I hope the chain don't do that. I'm not pulling it out again. He needs the car done ASAP.

A lot of W body guys cut part of the lower tube of the bumper. I prefer to put the IC up an inch or so and bolt to the bottom of the radiator support. That way you can avoid the IC hitting curbs etc first.