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Old 07-08-2013, 11:31 AM   #31
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Thumbs up Buick and stall

Ok, Thanks for the info. The last thing we replaced was the ICM friday. After resetting computer and doing several tests runs, at day 3 she is good, but i will not say that is the issue as we have thought it before. Not making any trips out of this area till i feel secure about it.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:47 PM   #32
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No problem, but seriously good luck finding the issue it must be annoying as heck!!!
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:55 AM   #33
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Question OMG! Gonna blow it up!

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No problem, but seriously good luck finding the issue it must be annoying as heck!!!
well 4 days in and running strong,,, almost wanted to believe..... Just towed it home!!!!!!!!!! new wires, plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, Crank sensor, ICm. PCV, I mean it will be a new car soon,,,, Grrrrr.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:58 AM   #34
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Muledog,
This could be a shot in the dark but may as well try and help. I have a 2000 buick regal lse (3., after a road trip and getting into a traffic jam I noticed my car giving a bit of hesitation. Point is few days later drove my car to a gas station and it would not start when I went to leave, after trying to figure out what happened I tried to start again about a45 min later and it worked. Baffled me, it had symptoms of some type of spark issue hence the hesitation I mentioned which seemed to increase in tandem with the accelerator and as speed increases. Turns out it was a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor after getting a diagnostic check on my car. This brings myself to the second part in my post.

Is this something you could get checked with a diagnostic machine, I know it can cost $70-$100 but it could be better than going the trial and error route unless you have unlimited free access to a junkyard.

For anyone who has had a MAF sensor issue in the past I can tell you this with my experience owing a 3.8. the 3.8 can run quite hot as it is, this makes maintaining your cooling system all the more important. There is a coolant passage that goies from the LIM (Lower Intake Manifold) to the UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) that is supposed to keep your throttle body/air intake temp warmer in the winter to prevent freezing. In my opinion all this does is make your engine run even hotter in warm months, particularly on a road trip or traffic jam. This extreme heat will fry your MAF sensor and you may see yourself go through a few in your lifetime if you do not blow a head gasket and possibly cause worse damage to your engine cylinders first. I simply pipe tapped the coolant passage in the LIM that feeds your UIM, if I ever blow a head gasket my engine cylindars will not be damaged quickly because antifreeze coolant will have no way of pouring into my engine from the UIM.

Just some fun knowledge I though I may as well share.
Given all that they have already replaced, that would be the only thing left I'd think could be causing the issue, I had my MAF cause issues where it would stall, and where when I'd start the car it would run horribly.
I removed my MAF and examined the sensor, then cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner, while doing so I noticed the tip had came loose from the sensor, and the two little raised plastic parts that were supposed to hold the tip in place, had worn down, so the tip would occasionally spin, and get intermittently stuck, when it would get stuck it was stopping the air flow over the thermistors, I never got any DTC'*.
Now I know their MAF is a lot different than mine, so what I said about the tip does not apply, but the MAF could be intermittently failing.

I am not sure if their UIM/throttle body is like the 3800, I am only familiar with the 3800, but either way I do not think the heat that produces could harm the MAF, the hot wire thermistors when pulsed with electricity normally reach around 500F I believe it is, so the wires can handle the heat.
Also, the 3800 heads/head gaskets take a lot of abuse to blow them.

Back to their issue, I do think they should get the MAF tested if they can, or maybe see if a junkyard has one that they'd let go for cheap, a new one is going to run from 110.00 to 130.00, so if a local junkyard wanted too much for one, then I'd not bother buying one from them.
Hopefully they can get the MAF properly tested/diagnosed, rather than to keep throwing parts at it, that route can get expensive fast!

The first thing I would do before anything, is what Justin suggested before, when it stalls/won't start, check all cylinders for spark between the plug, and the wire, below is what I use.
Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive

If the spark looks fine at all cylinders, then check the fuel pressure.
Also, I believe they still need to check for any large vacuum leaks, I don't see where they ever mention doing so.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:25 AM   #35
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Question pain buick

There are no large air vacuum leaks, We have a tester and get NO codes other then the stupid check gas cap, and we just bought a new one, and still get that. Have Never had any codes, other po445, evaporator leak, . At this time , NO codes. Those are the other codes ever. he changed alot of hoses just because when we got it. Does Not run bad, stumble, anything when she runs- runs perfect, great MPG.
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:36 PM   #36
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WilliamE,
I have a 3800 and know exactly what you speak of with the MAF, as I stated earier in the thread to Muledog mine went bad on a very long road trip when stuck in traffic jam. I was too aggressive and at that point my cooling system was not up to par because all of my gaskets incuidng UIM and LIM were not replaced yet. It is likely burning oil/antifreeze smoke that gets sucked in through your intake and "cakes" the MAF wire with burnt oil/coolant smoke.

That being said Muledog, I once had an evaporation (very frustrating because I don't care at all about passing emmissions inspection) leak just as you are explaining, I had some boso mechanic tell me "it'* probably my gas cap" with doing basically 0 research and putting in 0 effort. After going to several mechanics to diagnose the issue I received a different awnser every time... "your exhaust is leaking you need a new exhuast system" (LOLOL), gas cap, different sensors.... Well finally when I had a mechainic use a good diagnostic tool the problem WAS the evaporation sensor on top of the gas tank. I believe the ground was bad which is not suprising down there.

Perhaps this is the problem BUT I must say my car did have running issues because of the evaporation sensor on top of the gas tank, however the bad MAF made it seem like my car was one step away from being gone forever (really that'* how shitty it ran).

On a sepertate note, cleaning all my gaskets including UIM and LIM has livened up my car a lot and runs much cooler.
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Old 07-11-2013, 03:38 PM   #37
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*IMPORTANT EDIT*
Perhaps this is the problem BUT I must say my car did NOT! have running issues because of the evaporation sensor on top of the gas tank, however the bad MAF made it seem like my car was one step away from being gone forever (really that'* how shitty it ran).
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:29 AM   #38
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Question Another piece to the puzzle

The voltage gage on the dash- Hubby has been watching it. he says when driving it is usually 14.8 as it should be, but upon just stopping and idling at a light , voltage goes down to 12.4 or so. Upon reading , finding this should not be and alternator possibly on the way out?
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:51 AM   #39
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The voltage gage on the dash- Hubby has been watching it. he says when driving it is usually 14.8 as it should be, but upon just stopping and idling at a light , voltage goes down to 12.4 or so. Upon reading , finding this should not be and alternator possibly on the way out?
Sounds normal to me, when you are driving, and not idling, the RPM'* are higher, and the alternators charge is in relation to the RPM'*, and the percentage of the batteries charge, 14.8 is what you are seeing when the alternator has kicked in, and is doing its job, I am betting the actual voltage when it drops down from 14.8 is 12.6/12.7v, which is what it should be for a fully charged battery.

When the battery reaches full charge, the voltage drops..
If it is actually dropping to 12.4 then it should not stay there too long before jumping back to 14.8 to get the charge back up to 100%

Here is a link to a state of charge chart.
http://www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/..._batteries.pdf

If you still think something is wrong with the alternator, then have it tested somewhere like AutoZone, they should test it for free.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:36 PM   #40
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Question Hopefully last post in this thread

Replaced coil pack last week and so far so good, but i dont trust it! Making my husband drive the thing for weeks! I ll take his lincoln thank you,lol. next step will be the computer .
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