Oh yes that he does know!

I knew i spoke too soon, been good all week , and this am, went to the store , and would not start for half an hour. Check gas cap light and evaporative leak detected. No purge flow or large leak is code.

Neither of those conditions would prevent the car from starting.

depends if something was way wrong with the vacuum tubes, check them to the regulator and purge valve on the engine. just because they are there doesnt mean they hold vacuum, spray them with carb cleaner when the engine is running. and listen to the engine. seems more likely there is two problems but the purge valve could be open which would cause a vacuum leak or the vacuum leak could be causing fuel pressure issues

Ok, Still working on the stall in the road, whenever , turn, issue. Changed CPS weekend before last. Drove it all week, was good till thursday, when i would not start for half an hour. Ran ok this weekend, now hard start and stalled twice on hubbys way to work. He said replace cam position sensor Next? This is making us NUTS!

its not the cam sensor. possibly ICM or wires for it. but you have to check for spark and fuel pressure when its not starting or stalled to narrow it down

Has new wires, plugs, fuel pump changed out 2 weeks ago, fuel filter this weekend. CPS last weekend.

there are alot of things that go into fuel and spark other than the things you have replaced and if you check fuel and spark when its happening that will give a direction

HAve now replaced ICM, same issue! Started up, went for a ride ( yes he reset ) stalled down road, got it home, no start.

Muledog,
This could be a shot in the dark but may as well try and help. I have a 2000 buick regal lse (3., after a road trip and getting into a traffic jam I noticed my car giving a bit of hesitation. Point is few days later drove my car to a gas station and it would not start when I went to leave, after trying to figure out what happened I tried to start again about a45 min later and it worked. Baffled me, it had symptoms of some type of spark issue hence the hesitation I mentioned which seemed to increase in tandem with the accelerator and as speed increases. Turns out it was a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor after getting a diagnostic check on my car. This brings myself to the second part in my post.

Is this something you could get checked with a diagnostic machine, I know it can cost $70-$100 but it could be better than going the trial and error route unless you have unlimited free access to a junkyard.

For anyone who has had a MAF sensor issue in the past I can tell you this with my experience owing a 3.8. the 3.8 can run quite hot as it is, this makes maintaining your cooling system all the more important. There is a coolant passage that goies from the LIM (Lower Intake Manifold) to the UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) that is supposed to keep your throttle body/air intake temp warmer in the winter to prevent freezing. In my opinion all this does is make your engine run even hotter in warm months, particularly on a road trip or traffic jam. This extreme heat will fry your MAF sensor and you may see yourself go through a few in your lifetime if you do not blow a head gasket and possibly cause worse damage to your engine cylinders first. I simply pipe tapped the coolant passage in the LIM that feeds your UIM, if I ever blow a head gasket my engine cylindars will not be damaged quickly because antifreeze coolant will have no way of pouring into my engine from the UIM.

Just some fun knowledge I though I may as well share.