Okay....got the battery back. The guy said it was only at like 70% . So, I am guessing the bad crank sensor was draining the battery, but I am also gonna get the alternator tested.
AND, it fired right up
BUT, now I have 2 more problems.
1 - Exhaust sounds like h&ll up front. I had this problem earlier, the garage that did my UIM said someone cut the exhaust pipe trying to steal my cat, so he welded it up for me. Maybe his weld came undone?
2 - The ever present oil issue....I saw smoke coming out, popped the hood and saw oil burning off the motor. I checked oil level it looks like I have too much? IF there was too much oil, would it leak out, like force itself out? What usually causes an oil leak?

Not sure what to do next. Thinking about draining the oil and refiling it to the correct amount to make sure, then see what happens. Now, I need to get to the store for the oil, filter an drain pan.

Crank sensors can't drain batteries. You have another drain somewhere else. Start pulling random fuses while using an ammeter between the positive cable and the positive post. I don't recall the target drain level, but someone will post it here shortly, or you can search on 'ammeter'.

The exhaust issue you'll have to find on your own. But you may want to carefully inspect the donut seal between the rear manifold and downpipe as well as the welds on the cat.

Don't run the car until you get the oil to the right level. Make sure the level isn't high due to a coolant leak!

It better not be a coolant leak after all the UIM work and what not. What I meant about the crank sensor is could it have been causing the battery to work too hard? You could watch the battery gauge dance while driving.
I am not too worried about the exhaust, I can find that. It'* on of the few areas that don't scare me.
The oil level is what is getting to me. As I have said, before the stalling problem occurred, while driving the oil pressure would drop after just a few miles. IT would actually get into the red and you would have to rev the motor while stopped at a traffic light to get the pressure up.

Supposedly he changed it about 8 weeks ago when he did the UIM. That'* actually when the problem started.

Agreed. Ideally, after a UIM changed, you'll want to change the oil and the oil filter twice. One thing I recommend is, after you replace the oil filter with a new one, cut the old one in half and take a look, tell us what you see, or take a pic and post it if you can.

Also, take a pic of the oil after you drain it, too. If you're going to have it done, ask the mechanic to inspect the oil for you for any oddities.

Checking the current draw should be less than 30 milliamps (.030 amps). Most cases will be 1/2 to 1/4 of that amount. If you're more than that, you have a draw serious enough to kill your battery.

I'll check on the voltage when I can.
Well, I did the oil change. The old stuff looked pretty

Anyways, put on anew filter and some Pennzoil. Drove it around a bit and it'* the same as it was before. Actually I developed some kind of stutter at low speeds, like form a stop and when I get around 40is, but it doesn't feel like a tranny thing. Hmmm....

At least I know I have good oil in it.
I'll put some pics up in a little bit.
Maybe tomorrow I can get some video....

Here'* the old oil



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And I think I discovered the real reason why the car isn't running right




Isn't she too cute!!! When she saw me getting my tools she had to get hers. Now, if I could teach her not to use a hammer and saw to fix a car.