Won't start...I think I ran the fuel to low... - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-18-2007, 04:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueWildMan
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Originally Posted by wjcollier07
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Gonna go try the screw driver thing on the coils. Be right back.
To do this correctly, you have to touch one end of the metal part of the screwdriver on the coil post, and the other end of the screwdriver about 1/8" over a metal part of the car frame, chassis, or other grounded piece of metal.
I've confirmed that it can be checked between the coil posts.
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Old 03-18-2007, 07:08 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
We can rule out plugs & wires because you checked for spark at the coils.
How so? If the coil posts are getting spark (hopefully he checked all the posts), and it'* not getting spark in the cylinder, it would almost have to be either the wire or the plug.

I'd say the next step would be to pull each plug one at a time, leave the wire and boot secure to the plug, and have someone turn it over. Watch the end of the plug for spark. If you find a plug that has no spark, remove the plug and stick a narrow-ended screwdriver in the boot, hold the screwdriver next to an unpainted piece of metal, and have someone turn the key.

A couple of reminders here: Don't hold the plug as someone turns it over, of you'll get zapped.

Same with the screwdriver method: If you hold it near the body of the car, don't lean on the car or you'll get zapped.

Now, if all the plugs are getting spark, then the spark isn't hot enough to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, and then a voltmeter will be a necesasry next step. At least 4 or more plugs will need good spark to at least maintain somewhat of an idle, which is why I would think it'* important to check more than one post.

I do tend to be extremely thorough, however.
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Old 03-18-2007, 07:09 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
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Originally Posted by TrueWildMan
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Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallbump
Gonna go try the screw driver thing on the coils. Be right back.
To do this correctly, you have to touch one end of the metal part of the screwdriver on the coil post, and the other end of the screwdriver about 1/8" over a metal part of the car frame, chassis, or other grounded piece of metal.
I've confirmed that it can be checked between the coil posts.
Oh ok. How do you check specific posts using this method? I would think they need to be checked individually, and all of them need to be checked. No?
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Old 03-18-2007, 07:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
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Oh ok. How do you check specific posts using this method? I would think they need to be checked individually, and all of them need to be checked. No?
Each coil fires 2 plugs at the same time. I'm not the greatest at explaining this so let me know if this helps or not. The current for the spark travels up one coil post through the spark plug wire where it jumps the gap & travels through the block & across the other plug & back through that wire to complete the circuit at the other coil post.
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Old 03-18-2007, 08:10 PM   #45
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Quote:
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Oh ok. How do you check specific posts using this method? I would think they need to be checked individually, and all of them need to be checked. No?
Each coil fires 2 plugs at the same time. I'm not the greatest at explaining this so let me know if this helps or not. The current for the spark travels up one coil post through the spark plug wire where it jumps the gap & travels through the block & across the other plug & back through that wire to complete the circuit at the other coil post.
Yep, that explains it. If either post is bad, the circuit won't close. But how does that rule out plugs and wires if you're just checking the posts on the coil with a screwdriver?
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Old 03-18-2007, 08:12 PM   #46
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Well, I got NO spark at any of the coils. I don't have a volt meter but I may have access to one in a few days. What to I do with it when I get it? I'll let you know when I do, and I am getting a Chitlon'* manual too. My friend picked it up for $1 at a book store going out of business. Sweet!
Umm, if there is no spark at the coil, doesn't that mean it'* not even getting to the wire? So wouldn't that mean it could be the Ignition Control Module?
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Old 03-18-2007, 08:17 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallbump
Well, I got NO spark at any of the coils. I don't have a volt meter but I may have access to one in a few days. What to I do with it when I get it? I'll let you know when I do, and I am getting a Chitlon'* manual too. My friend picked it up for $1 at a book store going out of business. Sweet!
Umm, if there is no spark at the coil, doesn't that mean it'* not even getting to the wire? So wouldn't that mean it could be the Ignition Control Module?
I apologize, I missed that. NO spark at the coil? Yeah, it'd be further down, then, and it'd be hard to believe that all three coils went at the same time.

Yeah, I knew that, that'* why I was making sure that it was checked correctly. Somewhere along the way, I lost that you had no spark at the coil.

Sheesh, can't wait till I'm done with all these pain-killers....

Carry on, gentlemen, carry on....
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Old 03-18-2007, 08:39 PM   #48
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No problem. I am not a mechanic by any means, and was just making sure I understood correctly. Believe me, any input is appreciated.
And, enjoy the meds
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Old 03-18-2007, 09:17 PM   #49
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If you don't have an ICM to swap in or a cheap yard to get one one pulled, I've got a know good working spare S2 ICM I could mail you. PM if you want it.
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Old 03-18-2007, 09:28 PM   #50
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Well, I definitely don't have a spare. I can try some yards tomorrow. What would you want for the one you have? It would be nice to know the one I am getting works.
Next, I need to figure out how to get it swapped. I was looking at it earlier, doesn't look too bad. Between all of you guys helpin, and the Haynes and Chilton'* manuals, I think I'll be okay.
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