Thanks, just didn't want to overlook the obvious
Gonna go try the screw driver thing on the coils. Be right back.

So, no spark. I tried all 3 coils.
Now what?

Do you have a voltmeter?

Mine didn't have spark on one coils and I had to replace the Ignition module to fix it. If that is the same to fix yours just for your info I found it cheapest at Auot Zone for 125 or 129.

That'* about $125 more than I wanted to spend.
No volt meter. Actually been meaning to get one since I do like to do stereo installs, just never got around to it. Since were on that topic, anyone recommend a good but reasonably priced one?
The battery is less than a year old, but I did have voltage problems for the longest time even after the battery. Ended up being the crank sensor, which was just a few weeks ago. Could that have killed the battery though?

Ok so you said the engine IS turning over, the accessory belt IS moving when you try to start right? If it is, your starter is probably OK.

As for the no spark issue, I would go to a JY and replace all three packs and the IAC and see if you see different results. If the engine is turning over, your charging system is probably fine.

Which method did you use to check for spark?

To do this correctly, you have to touch one end of the metal part of the screwdriver on the coil post, and the other end of the screwdriver about 1/8" over a metal part of the car frame, chassis, or other grounded piece of metal.

Oh yeah he did say he checked at the coils.

Ok here'* what we need for spark:
Power (12 volts) to the ICM
Good plugs & wires
Good crank sensor
Good ICM & coils
Good ground at ICM mounting plate
Good wiring between the Crank sensor & ICM

Normally I like to confirm power at the ICM. The pink/black wire should have 12 volts while the key is on. This can be checked with a voltmeter or 12v light bulb. Since you can hear the fuel pump & the ICM & fuel pump share the same fuse we can pretty much rule this out.

We can rule out plugs & wires because you checked for spark at the coils.

Crank sensor was just replaced but we can't rule it out.

Odds are all three coils didn't quit at the same time but ICM is a prime suspect.

You can check the mounting plate ground with a voltmeter or 12v light bulb. Just test between the positive battery terminal & the plate.

You can look over the wiring between the ICM & crank sensor paying close attention where the wiring plugs into the crank sensor.


I'd say that by far the most common causes of no spark is the crank sensor followed by the ICM. I think a new crank sensor is $30-$40. A junkyard ICM would be about the same.