1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Drove it yesterday, doesn't start today? 97 se sc

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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #51  
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Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.

** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Thanks for the additional information. I found a schematic of the ignition system. It looks like we could rule out a vats or fuse problem by seeing if there is power going to the ICM.

James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.

Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.

If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.

No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
You will use the V setting ( the setting will have a short horziontal bar over 3 dots).
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by james tharp
Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.

** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.
No the spark pulg wire do not need the metal castings.

Stupid question; you metion spark plug wires, if you have already replaced them, are they all in order. No Pun, just :?: :?:
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 02:55 PM
  #54  
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Hold up Cheetah.

Our back bank of plugs do have a metal casing that slides around the plug boot.

Take them off the old wires and put them on the new ones. They help the boots resist the high temps found behind the motor.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by james tharp
Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.

** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.

Set the meter up for DC volts.
Black wire in Com
Red in V?ma
Like Cheetah said - solid line with 3 dots under it.
Check the voltage of the battery to confirm its set up correctly.
Black lead on tester to Neg. Battery terminal.
Red lead to pos. side.
should read 12-13 volts.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Hold up Cheetah.

Our back bank of plugs do have a metal casing that slides around the plug boot.

Take them off the old wires and put them on the new ones. They help the boots resist the high temps found behind the motor.

I compleately agree Bill, however it'* not needed to start the car at least I don't think so.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Originally Posted by james tharp
Ok bought a voltage tester thing. Doh!! need a nine volt battery.Okit has acv 750, dca, 10 a dcv, hFE etc when I test whicch wetting do I use.Then the wires plug into either of three holes 10 ADC, V?mA , or COM 500 volt max. I have a black wire and a red wire.

** do our spark plug wires have to have the metal casing around them? The new ones I got don't have that casing.

Set the meter up for DC volts.
Black wire in Com
Red in V?ma Yes <----
Like Cheetah said - solid line with 3 dots under it.
Check the voltage of the battery to confirm its set up correctly.
Black lead on tester to Neg. Battery terminal.
Red lead to pos. side.
should read 12-13 volts.
Everything Sounds Right!!! Do Not Pulg The Red Test Lead Into The 10A Port. BAD!!!!!
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #58  
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im not seeing the horizontal line with 3 dots,, My unit is a Actron CP7672. Here is a link to what it looks like.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...223062-9504905

Perhaps, we could start there..
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by james tharp
im not seeing the horizontal line with 3 dots,, My unit is a Actron CP7672. Here is a link to what it looks like.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...223062-9504905

Perhaps, we could start there..
Set it exactly the way it is in the picture. The red lead will go into the Volts port and the black into the COM. This will give you a voltage reading up to 20 volts.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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Put the wires in the connections as given above and set the meter just like it is in the picture to measure your battery voltage.

To measure the coil resistance, leave the connections as they are and move the swtich to 200 ohms...6 o'clock position.
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