1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Drove it yesterday, doesn't start today? 97 se sc

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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 04:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
While he'* getting dinner (pot roast sounds good) can we clear up a few things.

#1 - I thought Vats wasn't an issue if the starter is turning over the motor. Yes? No? Different years do different things?

#2 - Will the engine start with a bad crank sensor?

#3 - Will the engine start with a bad Cam sensor?

#4 - Should there be dielectric grease under the coils to prevent corrosion?
Hmmmm.....good questions.....there are lots of reasons that the car may not start. I honestly don't have the answers to these questions at the moment and will need to research.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 05:43 PM
  #42  
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There was a little of the grease stuff on the posts for the coils. I had the crank sensor replaced last summer. Dont even know what a vat is.

Oh, my wife just gave it to me. How long are we going to keep working on this car. Blah blah. When is enough enough. When will you know what your doing with it. Yikes !
I want to fix this so the car stays at my house if you know what I mean.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 07:13 PM
  #44  
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I'm getting hungray. I hope it'* that good Texas beef

Anywho, can the system be reset / would it be recommended to disconnect power for at least 15 mins? He can continue to polk around and look everything over????
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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Thanks for the additional information. I found a schematic of the ignition system. It looks like we could rule out a vats or fuse problem by seeing if there is power going to the ICM.

James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.

Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.

If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.

No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 09:57 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by james tharp
Bill, I always see you on here. What do you do? Ae you retired. I mean I appriciate the help greatly. Im just wowed by your availability......
.

His homepage at his job in bonneville club
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #47  
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I really need to get a voltmeter. Ill get one tommorow. Thanks Tech Ted Ill get on that tommorow. Ive ran out of daylight. Sounds like an easy check. Is there a bolt on the connector to the ICM? It sure looked like one.

Oh thats what VAT means. I wish I didnt have one. Ill post again on this tommorow.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 08:08 AM
  #48  
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I had an idea last night while I was sleeping. I have an extra key. I wonder if that would make the difference. Il have to try it in the next hour. Then get my spark plug wires and my volt meter.
:?
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 08:31 AM
  #49  
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Worth a try.
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 08:37 AM
  #50  
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No workey with the extra key. @^&$*#()@(*&^^&(_(. Ahhh. Back to the 1st plan.
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