Threaded plugs are ideal, but I think I have heard of others JB Welding a dime in there. I dont remember if it is a straight drop in, or if they had to bore out the head of the hole just a bit.

I totally agree with Mike, yours were bad, but not as bad as mine, or many I've seen pics of.
Here is what mine looked like.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I see you have green coolant in there, hopefully the coolant system was totally flushed before the coolant was changed from Dex Cool to the green stuff, Dex Cool does not mix well with other coolants.
I'd give it a full flush before you are done, and put something like Zerex G5 in it, and be sure to bleed the air from the coolant system when done.
I'd change the oil also.

As for blocking the coolant ports, these should work well, I don't think you do do the dime trick without opening up, and recessing the hole a bit, on the L67'* I believe you could do the dime trick though.


If you get those from Amazon then you can get this tap.

Yeah I spilled some coolant in there when taking the intake out but there was some oil in there and some coolant and too my knowledge its been green since before I bought it and I have never had any kind of overheating issue

Does my gasket look o/e also does that tap and fitting require and drilling or just tap and screw it in also how tight and would you recommend some jb weld on the threads

Spilling a little coolant in there is normal, when you change the oil just pour a little oil down in there, or use something like an old towel to soak it up.
Your gasket is OE 1st design, so it is good that you are replacing it before the engine had a chance to hydra-lock.
The tap should just be screwed in there a little bit, then try to out the plug in to see how it fits, you want to get it to fit tightly.
As for JB weld on the threads, I'd use something like Permatex Water Pump And Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket maker, that should work fine, or if you have enough in the LIM kit use a little of that black RTV.
As for an exact torque for the bolts, the torque needed varies on the thread quality, so there is no exact torque specified, let me see if I can find an article explaining tightening NPT fittings.

How tight should you install a NPT fitting?

i didnt have time to wait to order stuff so i tried to find a plug like that not even the plumbing places had it so i had to get the square head type and cut it down to a little less than 1/8".and get the threader at harbor freight, i think the three tap set they have was like 10-15. the hole has to be made bigger i think i started less than 7/16 and ended up one bigger than 7/16, try the tap carefully better too small and step it up than to big. then i used a bunch of permatex black on the threads and lightly seated the plugs. it was over night before i filled the car with coolant because of the permatex there and on the lim end seals

Anyone ever try to hela coil or Perma coil they have saved me in the past if so what size would I need

Wait, what are we trying to NPT plug????

You might want to check out this thread.
https://www.gmforum.com/lesabre-182/...-block-301957/

That is a good thread, I read that when I did my UIM/LIM, and based on it I decided to not block the passages, as the throttle body causing coolant leaks seemed to not be that common, and I already took care of the EGR stovepipe, I replaced it with the reduced diameter stove pipe that comes with the Fel-PRO LIM Kit, so I was not worried about it causing leaks.
I do think it is a good idea to hog out the coolant water bypass passage he mentions, to keep the flow from being reduced, but I hear many did not do this when they blocked theirs, and they say they have had no heat issues.