Wow I am digging this thread! Good Job there William -Bookmarking!
Re compression test, engine warm, 4-5 cranks over on each cylinder. Last time I did this test I borrowed Snap On gauge kit from my buddy'* shop.
Cheap gauge'* are not the best for accuracy.
oh ya...I normally would disconnect wires into coil packs before testing.

Yes all plugs removed too (edit add lol)

Is craftsman considered cheap haha

Thanks Art!

Robert, anything Craftsman is quality in my book, I still have a few sets of Craftsman tools I want saved on the K-Mart site..

When you compression test do as Art said, let the motor get warm, disconnect the ICM, ( I also removed my fuel relay so the pump would not prime) then carefully remove the plugs, be sure the exhaust manifolds have cooled enough to keep from burning yourself, when you are testing each cylinder let the compression build till you see it is no longer building pressure, it may take a few more than 5 cranks, it took me 6-9 cranks per cylinder to see it stop building pressure.

After you do the compression test dry, I'd carefully get 1-2 squirts of clean oil into each cylinder, try to get it on the sides of the cylinder walls if possible, and not on top of the piston, after wards screw in the compression tester and record the numbers, then compare the dry numbers to the wet numbers, if I am close to being on track of what I think the issue is, then I expect you to see the numbers significantly higher for the wet tests, if the car has a good bit of mileage I expect numbers to be a little higher wet though, so if they are a few psi higher I'd not be too worried.

Hopefully the compression numbers are good, and similar wet or dry.

Yeah I am really hoping for good numbers I will do the test tomorrow night and post at the latest Thursday the car has 160k on it the smoke is mainly white but I am pretty sure I saw a hint of blue at times and I highly doubt head gasket no bubles in radiator or milky oil or coolant I did notice there is a torques bit bolt near the LIM that seems to have oil leaking at the bolt causing it to puddle up around the LIM

theres two, the back one is difficult to see, but that is why i said get some thread seal and put it on all the lower intake manifold bolts. those hold brackets but cant go wrong putting it on everything

ok well here is my numbers in psi i am just going cylinders from left to right so cylinder 1 dry 210psi cyl 2. 210psi cyl 3. 215 cyl 4. 200psi cyl 5. 210psi cyl 6. 210 psi i rounded up on a couple of them but it was within a couple psi like 208psi or somthing i did the easy cylinders wet and it was about 15psi higher but i feel like i had good numbers and did not do the back cylinders anyone have any input are these good numbers should i order my gasket kits let me know thanks agin for all the help

seems high, i wonder if its a rebuild. if those are accurate you know the front ones are fine

Numbers are really good, my numbers were around 145-150, I think average is around 165-170, so yours is higher than I've heard of so far, but that is NOT a bad thing , in your tests the compression barely went up when wet, so I don't think you have a problem with your rings.
I'd go ahead and get the LIM kit, when you remove the LIM try to get a pic of the gasket if you can, if you can't at least look to see how damaged the gasket is around the coolant ports.
Expect the coolant elbow to break upon removal from the LIM and Tensioner, be sure to get all bits of it out of each bore.

Will do thanks for all the help I will post my progress and a picture of the gasket I am going to start tearing it down right away