Bonny starts but then dies - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-14-2015, 06:56 PM   #41
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Well, got the dash back in and the bulb still didn't light up and was having the same shut down problem.
I went ahead and figured the TDM was not working right. Figured since it was starting but then dying, it had to be with the fuel enable side of it. Mind you, this is a 1993 Bonneville and nowhere could I find that this year they used the injector disable. Well, guess what... they did.
I went and bought a bypass for the 50Hz signal from the TDM to the ECM/PCM, installed it and what do you know, started right up and stayed running.
So if anyone ever tells you this doesn't happen in a 93', they are miss-informed, cause the car manufactures sure did install it on this car.
I still don't have a security light but I figure I can live without that as long as the car runs.
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:06 PM   #42
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Hello from a new member..I have this VATS problem, Checked the passkey II resistor value at the connector end of the 2 wires, It say 11.8 which is the key value. My problem is that I get no gaz input, ignition seems ok. If I send a bit of gaz in the carburator the car will keep running. I want to check the passkey II module, It seems to be behind top of the glove compartement. If so the passenger air bag is in the way. My question is: how can I remove the top part or cover that is installed above the passenger air bag whithout causing damage, There is 2 hexagonal/philips screws that seems to be holding it just above the glove compartement, removed with no results. I have access to the GM shop manual and to Mitchel, neither mentions this cover.
Thank you for any help
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:27 PM   #43
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Hello, thanks for the answer.
Things have evolved since I posted my previous message. First I verified the resistor, in my case a 11.8 ohms, it was ok, but I changed the cylinder because of broken plastic part and had the new cylinder cut to my keys...Then I took the dash completely apart to get to the TDM module, put it on the table and made it work, ( I am an electronic technician) I wired leds on the ignition, fuel enable and security signals. The little box works like a charm. I had the opportunity to verify the other functions of that box, like the 3 minutes shut off if you introduce a good mechanical key with the wrong resistor value. I liked this so much that I drilled holes and installed the leds permanent, for somebody interested I have used the new high brightness leds with some 3000 ohms resistor to minimise current drawn from the TDM microprocessor. This way I can monitor the operation of the little box all the time. I also made the wires of the box longer in order to move the TDM box below the dash. It works as it should do. I noticed that the moment you introduce the key into the cylinder the ignition and the fuel enable signals comes on and stays on as long as the key is in, the security signal comes on for 3 seconds and goes of which is normal. You don't have to turn the key, but it is good to turn it step by step slowly to see if the resistor is making good contact. One more thing about this box if the resistor gets disconnected while driving, this will be ignored. This is a function of the box that I stumbled on....I then moved to the fuel pump, I also wired a led and a 3k resistor across the fuel pump relay coil and made it permanent also, this led is lighting on every start attempt and stays on a few seconds after cranking has stopped, no problems there....I then reinstalled my dash...This way I can monitor these function all the time. I also connected a fuel pressure gauge, giving me a good 50lbs reading... Still have my problem, crank but wont run.... Had some old gas in the 1/2 full thank, that car doesn't run in the winter (Canadian). I filled it up with new gas, no results, I dropped in a bottle of gas system cleaner , it seems to work good for a while and went back to the old problem. My next step is to empty the gas tank completely and try some new gas. I will then move to the ignition.
Please some ideas.


Pontiac Bonneville SE 1995 125000 kms
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:44 PM   #44
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There isn't a key made with 11.8 ohms......
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:26 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
There isn't a key made with 11.8 ohms......
SS
Sorry my friend, thank for correcting me, I simply forgot the k between the .8 and the ohms. The value stated is you are right 11.8k ohms and not 11.8 ohms. This is no 15 in the list, the highest value and coded UW.
Thank you
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:25 PM   #46
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Why are we discussing this in someone else'* thread?
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