95'SE Starts,Dies,Starts,Dies... - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-06-2006, 03:22 AM   #1
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Default 95'SE Starts,Dies,Starts,Dies...

95'SE Starts, Dies, Starts, Dies... She wont stay running. It fires over then dies almost immediately, like you turned off the key. Replaced the fuel pump couple of weeks ago,
FFilter last weekend, FPR seems ok, getting 48-50psi and holds it, I replaced the TPS, air idle selonoid, cleaned the MAF, tried throttle body cleaner (highly flammable) in the intake while cranking, cleaned the battery posts, cables, ground connection (under hood), and installed some new plugs. Some of the posting Ive read refer to the Crank Position Sensor and or the Cam position sensor, what I am curious about is. It will fire up for about 2 seconds then die, would it do that if either of those two items were toast? This problem is recent, it was stalling out while driving along, just like you turned off the ignition, but would restart immediately and continue on with no problem for days. on a few occassions it was hard to start, taking 6-9 tries before finally running. Now wont keep running at all. Any help would be appreciated greatly!
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Old 04-06-2006, 03:58 AM   #2
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This sounds exactly like a VATS issue we've seen on a 97. According to the FSM the car will crank, but the fuel enable relay will not give any fuel past the first prime to start.

Try cleaning the pellet on your key with rubbing alcohol. Also note what the security light does as you try to start and after you attempt a start.
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
This sounds exactly like a VATS issue we've seen on a 97. According to the FSM the car will crank, but the fuel enable relay will not give any fuel past the first prime to start.

Try cleaning the pellet on your key with rubbing alcohol. Also note what the security light does as you try to start and after you attempt a start.
this is EXACTLY what i was thinking

One thing you can do is check fuel pressure before and after it dies. As Bill said above, With a fault on the passkey, the fuel pump will run to prime the system before start up, but will not maintain pressure to run the car.

After you clean off the resistor in the key, put an Ohm meter to it to see if it reads a value and not 0ohm or OL
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:52 AM   #4
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Use a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol (not beer) to clean the contacts in the ignition switch at the same time.

However, this isn't a VATS issue. This system is not capable of killing a running car. He gets it fired off, then it stalls out. VATS will only prevent a start.
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:55 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Use a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol (not beer) to clean the contacts in the ignition switch at the same time.

However, this isn't a VATS issue. This system is not capable of killing a running car. He gets it fired off, then it stalls out. VATS will only prevent a start.
the symtoms described are identical to the probelms had to Frankenbonnie when he had the VATS issue, it would start and run for MAYBE 2 seconds then die.
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Old 04-06-2006, 09:05 AM   #6
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Someone explain why he'* getting fuel pressure. If it died, it would have bled off.

I'd like to know the status of the Security light.
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Old 04-06-2006, 09:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Someone explain why he'* getting fuel pressure. If it died, it would have bled off.

I'd like to know the status of the Security light.
i dont doubt based on my previous experience that it holds fuel pressure before start, im curious if it still has good fuel pressure after it dies.

so, things to check:
Clean VATS Resistor in Key
Check Resistor Value
Status of Security Light
Fuel Pressure AFTER Vehicle Dies


after re-reading the first post here, i am also curious about maybe a crank sensor issue, since it began as an intermittant stalling and hard start, im not sure if VATS will cause the car to die after it has been running (like there is a dirty connection in the ignition switch causing a bad connection through the VATS resistor)
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Old 04-06-2006, 12:57 PM   #8
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Thanks for the responses. I had a pressure gauge on the fuel rail for several starts and does not seem to lose pressure below 45 psi even when temporarily running. I will check the key issue. I have had several keys made for family members but mine is original. Car has 90K miles. The security light does not blink, and goes off with all the other lights when car starts, however, they all come back on right after it quits. Thanks for the suggestions, keep em comming. I am going to put an ocilliscope on the crank sensor either tonight or this weekend depending on work to see if it is operating. Thanks again. Jon
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Old 04-06-2006, 02:31 PM   #9
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I think you are going to find that you may need a new PCM... Everything you just described points to the PCM...

When you go to start the car the engine starts in Module mode... Thats the 2 seconds of run time... The PCM should take over once the engine passes 400 Rpms... Check for codes and see if you have a Code 1361( I think thats the code off of the top of my head )

Know anyone with a 94-95 Lesabre, Olds 88-98, Bonneville, or Lumina APV( 3800 ) Olds or Pontiac Transport with the 3800? They all use the same PCM

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Old 04-07-2006, 01:32 AM   #10
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Well, tested the CPS and got irregular readings on the scope. It is hard ot tell, since it only runs for a few seconds. I figured that was the problem and replaced it tonight. got everything back together and still have the same problem. I went to get a code reader and kept getting a link error. It wont seem to connect to read the codes. Several people say the PCM is toast. I can pick one up for 100 bucks but it doesnt come with the prom. How do I know if the PCM is bad or the prom. Hate to spend 100 bucks on the PCM and put my old prom into it only find I still have the same problem. Anyone got any experience with the PCM. Does anyone make a performance chip for the SE. and if so,
who and how much? Thanks for your assistance.

Jon
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