My 93 Bonny will start but then when the tach hits 1000, it dies.
I have checked the TPS, MAF, fuel pressure (41 pump starts, 35 when engine starts), spark is good at all plugs and throttle body is unrestricted.
I have changed a couple bad vacuum hoses and cleaned the ERG valves.
All the sensors check out as good.
I took a code reading via reading the "check engine light blinks" and it gave 17, 22, and 26.
I then changed the ECM and the codes changed to 16, 26, and 65.
I put in a fully charged battery and it still does not start.
The code 65 tells me a bad cruise control servo sensor but it'* never worked since I bought it a year ago.
This is really bumming me out.
It was working fine, then I went out the next morning and bam, it does this.
Turn the key, it starts, hits around 1000 rpm then dies.
Any help would be great.

I think I would check power and grounds are good and clean and the connection at the pcm

Changed ECM? New or used? Don't like the code 26......that is a quad driver circuiot problem....a quad driver, in the ECM, controls up to 4 circuits....any one of those circuits going bad, could cause the quad driver to shut down, for example, say one circuit controls a solenoid that is shorted, this excess current would cause the quad driver to shut down....those red, white and blue(connectors) ECM'* were problems....

I agree, if it was "new" meaning a Napa or Orlilleys reconditioned unit take it back. I've had no luck with that stuff. You're better off going to a junk yard and getting a good used one.

My thought is that alot of the codes are voltage related so if the power or ground or connection is bad it would cause all those codes

Checked grounds, all seemed good.
I was wondering if the connection between the icm and the pcm was any good and if that might give my stall problem.
I put the old pcm back in and I get the same issue. It starts, hits 1000rpms or roughly that area and then dies.
I was thinking the icm or crank sensor but I get good spark on all spark plug wires.
Could a ban oxygen sensor cause this, also could I maybe get a good reading from the tps but it still might not work right?
I would really like to know how to check the ECM to ICM wiring, I see a test procedure for the icm but not a test procedure for the white wire (ecm control), Tan w/black stripe wire (5 volt bypass), and the Purple w/white stripe) (fuel injection control)
Do you know the procedures to test these wire'*?

if you sign up for auto zone they give you free manuals, there is a probably a wiring diagram of the pcm to icm wires. you can measure ohms of the wire at each end.

the tps, if you read right its good, still might have wire issues. o2 doesnt shut the engine down.

Well, I checked all the wire'* between the icm and the ecm, all checked good.
All grounds are good.
Looked at the icm, was corroded so I changed that, still no difference.
I checked the codes again and they were 16,26, 56. so I changed the ecm.
No difference.
Checked the alternator but it'* putting out 14+ volts during the brief running that it has.
Now I am wondering if the ignition switch might let it start but then die when I release the key from the start position.
I was wondering also about the pass-key security system maybe doing this but I would assume it would not even start it that was the problem.

You changed the ECM....was it new, rebuilt, GM, aftermarket, junkyard?

As I said, those early 90'* ECM'* were a pain in the butt.....I had rebuilt ones that were no good our of the box.....

If we assume the ECM is ok, then one or more circuits going to the quad drivers in the ECM is the problem......you would need to get a schematic, and check out each circuit to the quad drivers.....this involves groundall the circuits controlled by the quad drivers, one at a time and attaching an ampmeter between the circuit and the ground to check for excessive current.....and you have to run the circuit for a few minutes to get a proper reading.....

I ran into this one time, where a solenoid was shorted, caused high current and shut the quad driver down, which in turn shut down the other circuits it also was controlling....this was very labor intensive to find.....but in all the years I've done this, I only ran into this once....all the other times, it was the ECM/PCM.....as I said, I don't know where you got the "new" ECM from. but that could still be your problem....otherwise, you are going to have to do some labor intensive testing....26 is quad driver A and 56 is quad driver B....

Guess I will have to check out each circuit because I have tried 2 new ECM'* and 1 from the Salvage yard, all with the same codes and starting issue.
Thanks