97SE Rattling Parcel Shelf ----SOLVED! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-10-2005, 02:49 PM   #21
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Ahhhhh. I see. Thanks
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Old 10-10-2005, 03:17 PM   #22
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So I used both Peel-and-Seal and Dynamat Extreme. I used Peel and Seel over the holes in the seat back, where the original tar-paper had either fallen or been pushed in (see my photos earlier in this thread). There'* also two patches of tar-paper in the back corners of the deck lid over hinges for the trunk lid. They have a little protective plastic cap underneath, over the hinge. I peeled the tarpaper off and cut a piece of Peel-and-Seal to replace it. The advantage is that the Peel-and-Seal has a foil backing, so it'* nice and clean on top after you install it, no tar all over the place.

And then I used Dynamat Extreme over the entire back deck, so I Dynamatted right OVER the Peel-and-Seal patches over the trunk hinges. I had two "wedge packs" of Dynamat Extreme, which was perfect to do the entire rear deck, then there'* Peel-and-Seal just forward of that, as the rear deck slopes down behind the seat, to cover the previously mentioned holes.

The Dynamat completely sealed the rear deck, which is great, because there'* a ton of gaps from the deck to the trunk, especially around the sides in back, where the factory stuffs a little wad of foam rubber as a pretty lame seal. The only cutouts in my deck are the two speaker holes and the holes for the speaker mounting clips, holes for the wiring harness clips, and the big hole under the 3rd brake light. The previous tar paper covered that hole, so if you packed enough stuff in your trunk you could get tar all over your stuff. That'* why I cut the Dynamat away from that hole. I'll use a simple aluminized insulation sheet to cover the 3rd brake light instead, to keep stray light from leaking.

Polyurethane glue is a pretty basic glue, Elmers sells it, and there'* a brand called "Gorilla Glue". I just used it as a general purpose glue to fasten down the little plastic oval ring that came with my speakers that fits on top of it. It doesn't serve much purpose other than to keep the surround of the speaker cone from peeling off. Because it'* just plastic that is friction-fit into the metal basket frame of the speaker, it'* a possible source of vibration, and Poyurethane glue is nice and sticky, so it worked well to glue down the plastic ring.

I *will* take pictures when I have it apart again to put the insulator blanket over the 3rd brake light.
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:13 PM   #23
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OK. I have Gorilla Glue. Just didn't realize it was polyurethane. Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:38 PM   #24
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Bugsi, how'* the sound dampening effect with all that you've done on that parcel shelf?
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Old 10-10-2005, 10:41 PM   #25
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The rear deck is dead solid now, no vibrations at all. I'm sure there'* a bit of lessening of road noise transmitted through the rear deck via the trunk, but I think the biggest sound deadening for road noise is had by installing a layer of carpet padding in the trunk, beneath the factory carpeting. Yes, there'* some padding back there already, but if you add a layer of carpet padding, it should have a much better deadening effect.

With my Boston Acoustics 3-way 6x9 speakers now mounted up on the speaker brackets (the way the factory intended them to be), the rear sound is so much better.

But by far the best thing is no more rattling back there.
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Old 10-18-2005, 02:06 AM   #26
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A pair of cheapie factory speakers with the real goods: The plastic mounting bracket. Junkyard $25 plus a plastic "back of trunk" panel (pictured later).


The crucial factory speaker mounting bracket. Had to enlarge the elliptical speaker opening slightly with a dremel tool to fit my Boston CX93'*. New foam-rubber weatherstrip gasket installed.


Boston Acoustics CX93 mounted in bracket and installed. Note plastic ring on top of speaker fastened with polyurethane glue, to make sure it won't be a source of rattle or vibration. (see seepage in front). Note rear window defroster wiring now encased in split loom tubing, just to make everything right.


Rear deck encased in Dynamat Extreme, Peel-and-Seal covering the front access holes (formerly tar-paper). Third Brake Light installed with foam-rubber gasket against the rear windshield to eliminate any vibrarions.


Close-up shot of the foam rubber weatherstrip on the face of the third brake light.


Third Brake Light covered with non-sticky metalized insulating pad to keep it from reflecting back into the car. Sealed to the Dynamat with some aluminum tape. The underside of this stuff is exactly the same as the top side, sandwiching a layer of what appears to be bubble-wrap.


Completed rear deck, Dynamatted, sealed, and speakers installed.


New rear-trunk panel installed.


Everything reassembled, no more vibrations from the rear deck!
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Old 10-18-2005, 06:53 AM   #27
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Wow, All that work is impressive. That is one craftsman like install, lots of ingenuity.
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