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Old 01-02-2015, 11:00 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Mike1995 View Post
It sits below the 3 coil packs.

Which engine do you have anyway?
He should have the Series 1 if memory serves right. I also remember the fuel pressure range for Series 1 was slightly lower than Series 2, but I will need to dig up my manuals to confirm it. His figures however do sound about right though.
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:30 PM   #12
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dont think a pump issue would cause cam and crank codes
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:42 PM   #13
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Well! Isn’t this something! An ignition unit goes bad but still sparks! Yesterday I transplanted the ICM from my Silhouette to my transport and, after sitting outside overnight in the cold, the results are: all symptoms have disappeared and the service engine light has gone off. I thought I would at least have to connect a scanner to do that! I wouldn’t have…hell, I didn’t guess that an ignition module that was still sparking would cause all that! The bad ICM that I removed was an aftermarket unit from “Standard”. The unit I pulled from the Silhouette had no markings but works well. This strange batch of symptoms had me thinking something, if not more than one thing, more serious was plaguing me. Thanks for all your help and feel free to contact me with any questions regarding Amphicars. I take them from rusted out, stripped down, damaged, used up, broken condition and make them like new again. -Larry-
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:59 PM   #14
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Your very welcome, glad we were of help!
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:03 PM   #15
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Just some info.....an ICM can give a spark......but it also is the go between for crank and cam data to the ECM/PCM........if it isn't sending this data, or if it doesn't switch control for timing, from base timing to the computer the car will run rough or die....
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Old 01-14-2015, 05:37 PM   #16
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UPDATE! Hi again guys. My problem is now officially resolved and I thought I would pass along findings so that it might help someone else.

When I swapped out my ICM with one from my parts car it seemed to have solved the problem, that is until yesterday. I started the van and while it was warming up in the driveway it quit. No spark at all. I put the old ICM back in and it ran fine. I began to suspect the corrosion on the bottom of the heat sink of the ICM. I sanded off the aluminum oxide from both ICMs and the mount plate and now both ICMs work well, symptoms are gone, SES light is off, and fuel economy is up. I am not sure if it was an electrical connection through the plate being interrupted or a heat sinking problem. I didn't take the time to figure that one out. I suspect that many new ICMs get sold to replace perfectly good ones that just need a little cleaning.

Thanks again to you guys for pointing toward the ICM. Again since I had good spark I never suspected it as a culprit. -Larry-
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:20 PM   #17
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Hi Guys. I have yet another chapter in the saga of the Trans Sport with "symptom multitudus". I did see some improvement with the swapping of the ICM but the symptoms just became more mysterious. Then on a very cold night, driving on a very bumpy road, it started faltering at cruising speed as well as during heavy acceleration. I began to suspect a cold solder joint(*) in the PCM since I have seen the wiper motor circuit board in these cars also have problems for the same reason (a touch of a soldering iron remedies that problem every time). I removed the PCM but a visual inspection did not reveal any cold joints. Lucky for me I had one I knew to work well. I put the PCM from my Silhouette in the Trans Sport and it performs like a new car. Problem solved!
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